Aliter holus molle
(Celery Purée)

Origin: Roman      Period: Traditional

Original Recipe

Aliter holus molle (from Apicius' De Re Coquinaria III,15,2)

Aliter holus molle: apium coques ex aqua nitrata, exprimes et concides minutatim. in mortario teres piper, ligusticum, origanum, cepam, vinum, liquamen et oleum. coques in pultario, et sic apium commisces.

Translation

Another vegetable purée: Cook celery in water with natron, squeeze out the excess liquid and finely chop. In a mortar, grind pepper, lovage, oregano, onion, wine, liquamen and oil. Cook in a porridge pot and mix with the celery.

Note: Natron is a naturally-occuring mix of baking soda and other salts that was used to embalm mummies in Egypt. It also has the properties that it both helps to tenderize meat and vegetables and it aids in the prevention of vegetables from discolouring, a very important factor in Roman cookery.

Ingredients:

2 large bunches of celery
generous pinch of baking soda
2 red onions, minced
pinch of black pepper
1 tsp dried oregano, crumbled
1/2 tsp lovage (or celery greens)
250ml white wine
1 tbsp liquamen (fish sauce (Nam Pla))
1 tbsp olive oil

Method:

Separate the celery stalks, add to a large pan and cover with water. Add the baking soda and bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and allow to cool then chop very finely before pulping with a large pestle and mortar (or pass through a sieve or through a vegetable grinder).

Meanwhile, pound the lovage seeds o a powder and combine with the minced onion and oregano. Transfer to a small pan, along with the wine, fish sauce and olive oil. Mix to combine then bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and continue to cook for about 5 minutes, or until the onions are done. Add the celery paste, mix to combine then allow to heat through and serve.

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