Celtnet Hannah Glasse Recipes for Roasting and Boiling, Chapter 1





Welcome to Celtnet's Hannah Glassse's Recipes for Roasting and Boiling — This page gives you the entire contents of the First Chapter: Of Roaſting, Boiling, &c. from Hannah Glasses's 1747 volume, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Hannah Glasse's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...

These pages have been written to be as close to the 1747 original as possible, within the limitations of HTML. As a result, the long-s symbol 'ſ' has been used in the text wherever it features in the original. Typically this is used where the s precedes a long letter such as an I, t or 1 or another long-s (to create a ligature), or where the S precedds a curved letter such as an 'a', 'e', 'o' or 's'. As a result, in the original work 'seasoned skirret soop' is typeset 'ſeaſoned ſkirret ſoop'.

You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the glossary of cooking and food terms pages on this site.

The text presented here is derived directly from Hannah Glasse's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.

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THE ART OF COOKERY,

MADE

PLAIN and EASY.





CHAPT. I.
Of Roasting, Boiling, &c.


THAT profeſſed cooks will find fault with touching upon a branch of cookery which they never thought worth their notice, is what I expec however, this I know, it is the moſt neceſſary part of it ; and few ſervants there are, that know how to roaſt and boil to perfection.
     I do not pretend to teach profeſſed cooks, but my deſign is to inſtruct the ignorant and unlearned (which will likewiſe be of great uſe in all private families) and in ſo plain and full a manner, that the moſt illiterate and ignorant perſon, who can but read, will know how to do every thing in cookery well.
     I ſhall firſt begin with roaſt and boiled of all ſorts, and muſt define the cook to order her fire according to what ſhe is to dreſs ; if any thing very little or thin, then a pretty little briſk fire, that it may be done quick and nice ; if a very large joint, then be ſure a good fire be laid to cake. Let it be clear at the bottom ; and when your meat is half done, move the dripping-pan and ſpit a little from the fire and ſtir up a good brisk fire ; for according to the goodness of your fire, your meat, will be done ſooner or later.


BEEF

IF beef, be ſure to paper the top, and baſte it well all the time it is roaſting, and throw a handful of ſalt on it. When you ſee the ſmoke draw to the fire, it is near enough ; then take off the paper, baſte it well, and drudge it with a little flour to make a fine froth. Never ſalt your roaſt meat before you lay it to the fire, for that draws out all the gravy. If you would keep it a few days before you dreſs it, dry it very well with a clean cloth, then flour it all over, and hang it where the air will come to it ; but be ſure always to mind that there is no damp place about it, if there is you muſt dry it well with a cloth. Take up your meat, and garniſh your diſh with nothing but horſe-radish.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the beef entry in the Celtnet Roasting Guide



MUTTON and LAMB.

AS to roaſting of mutton ; the loin, the ſaddle of mutton (which is the two loins) and the chine (which is the two necks) muſte be done as the becf above. Bur all other ſorts of mutton and lamb muſt be roaſted with a quick clear fire, and without paper ; baſte it when you lay it down, and juſt before you take it up, drudge it with a little flour ; but be ſure not to uſe too much, for that takes away all the fine taſte of the meat. Some chuſe to ſkin a loin of mutton, and roaſt it brown without paper : but that you may do just as you pleaſe, but be ſure always to rake the ſkin off a breast of mutton.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the lamb entry in the Celtnet Roasting Guide



VEAL.

AS to veal, you muſt be careful to roaſt it of a fine bwrown ; if a large joint, a very good fire ; if a ſmall joint, a pretty little briſk fire till it is ſoaked, then lay it near the fire. When you lat it down, baſte it well with good butter ; and when it is near enough baſte it again, and drudge it with a little flour. The breaſt you muſt roaſt with the caul on till it is enough ; and ſkewer the ſweetbread on the backſide of the breaſt. When it is night enough, take off the caul, baſte it and drudge it with a little flour.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the veal entry in the Celtnet Roasting Guide



PORK.

PORK muſt be well done, or it is apt to ſurfeit. When you roaſt a loin, take a ſharp penknife and cut the ſkin acroſs, to make the crackling eat the better. The chine you muſt not cut at all. The beſt way to roaſt a leg, is firſt to parboil it, then ſkin it and roaſt it ; baſte it with butter, then take a little ſage, ſhred it fine, a little pepper and ſalt, a little nutmeg, and a few crumbs of bread ; throw theſe over it all the time it is roasſting, then have a little drawn gravy to put in the diſh with the crumbs that drop from it. Some love the knuckle ſtuffed with onion and ſage ſhred ſmall, with a little peper and ſalt, gravy and apple-ſauce to it. This they call a mock gooſe. The ſpring, or hand of pork, if very young, roaſted like a pig, eats very well, otherwiſe it is better boiled. The ſparerib ſhould be baſted with a little bit of butter, a very little duſt of flour, and ſome ſage ſhred ſmall : but we never make any ſauce to it but apple-ſauce. The beſt way to dreſs pork griſkins is to roaſt them, baſte them with a little butter and crumbs of bread, ſage, and a little pepper and ſalt. Few eat any thing with theſe but muſtard.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the pork entry in the Celtnet Roasting Guide



To roaſt a pig.

SPIT your pig and lay it to the fire, which muſt be a very good one at each end, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay your pig down, take a little ſage fſhrred ſmall, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and a little pepper and ſalt; put them into the pig and ſew it up with Coarſe thread, then flour it all over very well, and keep flouring it till the eyes drop out, or you find the crackling hard. Be ſure to ſave all the gravy that comes out of it, which you muſt do by ſetting baſons or pans under the pig in the dripping-pan, as ſoon as you find the gravy begins to run. When the pig is enough, ſtir the fire up briſk ; take a coarſe cloth, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in it, and rub the pig all over till the crackling is quite criſp, and then take it up. Lay it in your diſh, and with a ſharp knife cut off the head, and then cut the pig in two, before you draw out the ſpit. Cut the ears off the head and lay at each end, and cut the under-jaw in two and lay on each ſide ; melt ſome good butter, take the gravy you ſaved and put into it, boil it, and pour it into the diſh with the brains bruiſed fine, and the ſage mixed all together, and then ſend it to table.



Different ſorts of ſauce for a pig.

NOW you are to obſerve there are ſeveral ways of making ſauce for a pig. Some don't love any ſage in the pig, only a cruſt of bread, ; ·but then you ſhould have a little dried ſage rubbed and mixed with the gravy and butter. Some love bread-ſauce in a baſon; made thus : take a pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil it for about five or ſix miners, and then pour the water off : take out the ſpice, ant beat up the bread with a good piece of butter. Some lore a few currants boiled in it, a glaſs of wine, and a little ſugar : but that you muſt do juſt as you like it. Others rake half pint of good beef gravy, and the gravy which comes out of the pig, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, two ſpoonfuls of catchup, and boil them all together; then take the brains of the pig and bruiſe them fine, with two eggs boiled hard and chopped ; put all theſe together, with the ſage in the pig, and pour into your diſh. It is a very good ſauce. When you have not gravy enough comes out of your pig with the butter for ſauce, take about half a pint of veal gravy and add to it : or ſtew the petty-toes, and take as much of that liquor as will do for ſauce, mixed with the other.



To roaſt the hind quarter of pig, lamb-faſhion.

AT the time of the year when houſe-lamb is very dear, take the hind quarter of a large pig ; take off the ſkin and roaſt it, and it will eat like lamb with mint-ſauce, or with a ſallad, or Seville-orange. Half an hour will roaſt it.



To bake a pig.

IF you ſhould be in a place where you cannot roaſt a pig, lay it in a diſh, flour it all over well, and rub it over with butter ; butter the diſh you lay it in, and put it into an oven. When it is enough draw it out of the oven's mouth, and rub it over with a buttery cloth ; then putt into the oven again till it is dry, take it out, and lay it in a diſh : cut it up, take a little veal gravy and take off the fat in a diſh it was baked in, and there will be ſome good gravy at the bottom ; put that to it, with a little piece of butter rolled in flour ; boil it up, and put it into the diſh with the brains and ſage in the belly. Some love a pig brought whole to table, then you are only to put what ſauce you like into the diſh.



To melt butter.

IN melting of butter you muſt be very careful ; let your ſaucepan be well tinned, take a ſpoonful o cold water, a little duſt of flour, and your butter cut to pieces : be ſure to keep ſhaking your pan one way, for ſear it should oil ; when it is all melted, let it boil, and it will be ſmooth and fine. A ſilver pan is beſt, if you have one.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Melt Butter.



To roaſt geeſe turkies, &c.

WHEN you roaſt a gooſe, turkey, or fowls of any ſort, take care to ſinge them with a piece of white paper, and baſte them with a piece of butter ; drudge them with a little flour, and when the ſmoke begins to draw to the fire, and they look plump, baſte them again, and drudge them with a little flour, and take them up.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the turkey entry in the Celtnet Roasting Guide



Suce for a gooſe.

FOR a gooſe make a little good gravy, and put it into a baſon by itſelf, and ſome apple-ſauce in another.



Sauce for a turky.

FOR a turkey good gravy in the diſh, and either bread or onion-ſauce in a baſon.



Sauce for fowls.

TO fowls you should put good gravy in the diſh, and either bread or egg-ſauce in a baſon.



Sauce for ducks.

FOR ducks a little gravy in the diſh, and onion in a cup, if liked.



Sauce for pheaſants and partridge.

PHEASANTS and partridges ſhould have gravy in the diſh, and bread-ſauce in a cup.



Sauce for larks.

LARKS, roaſt them, and for ſauce have crumbs of bread ; done thus : take a ſaucepan or ſtew-pan and ſome butter ; when melted, have a good piece of crumb of bread, and rub it in a clean cloth to crumbs, then throw it into your pan ; keep ſtirring them about till they are brown, then throw them into a ſieve to drain, and lay them round your larks.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Sauce for Larks.



To roaſt woodcocks and ſnipes.

PUT them on a little ſpit ; take a round of a threepenny loaf and toaſt it brown, then lay it in a diſh under the birds, baſte them with a little butter, and let the trale drop on the toaſt. When they are roaſted put the toaſt in the diſh, lay the woodcocks on it and have about a quarter of a pint of gravy ; pour it into a diſh, and ſet it over a lamp or chaffing-diſh for three minutes, and ſend them to table. You are to observe we never take any thing out of a woodcock or ſnipe.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Roast Woodcocks and Snipes.



To roaſt a pigeon.

TAKE ſome parſley ſhred fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, a little pepper and ſalt ; tie the neck-end tight ; tie a ſtring round the legs and rump and faſten the other end to the top of the chimney-piece. Baſte them with butter, and when they are enough lay them in the diſh, and hey will ſwim with gravy. You may put them on a little ſpit, and then tie both ends cloſe.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Roast a Pigeon.



To broil a pigeon.

WHEN you broil them, do them in the ſame manner, and take care your fire is very clear, and ſet your dridiron high, that they may not burn, and have a little melted butter in at cup. You may ſplit them, and broil them with a little pepper and ſalt : and you may roaſt them only with a little parſley and butter in a diſh.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Broil a Pigeon.



Directions for geeſe and ducks.

AS to geeſe and ducks, you ſhould have ſome ſage ſhred fine, and a little pepper and ſalt, and put them in the belly ; but never put any thing into wild ducks.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Directions for Geese and Ducks.



To roaſt a hare.

TAKE your hare when it is caſed, and make a pudding ; take a quarter of a pound of ſewet, and as much crumbs of bread, a little parſley ſhred fine, and about as much thyme as will lie on a ſixpence, when ſhred ; an anchovy ſhred ſmall, a very little pepper and ſalt, ſome nutmeg, two egg, and a little lemon-peel. Mix all theſe together and put it into the hare. Sew up the belly, ſpit it, and lay it to the fire, which muſt be a good one. Your dripping-pan must be very clean and nice. Put in two quarts of milk and half a pound of butter into the pan : keep baſting it all the while it is roaſting, with the butter and milk, till the whole is uſed, and your hare will be enough. You may mix the liver in the pudding, if you like it. You muſt firſt parboil it, and then chop in fine.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Roast a Hare.



Different ſorts of ſauce for a hare.

TAKE for ſauce, a pint of cream and half a pound of fresh butter ; put them in a ſaucepan, and keep ſtirring it with a ſpoon till the butter is melted, and the ſauce is thick ; then take up the hare, and pour the ſauce into the diſh. Another way to make ſauce for a hare, is to make good gravy, thickened with a little piece of butter rolled in flour, and pour it in to your diſh. You may leave the butter out, if you don't like, it, and have ſome currant-jelly warmed in a cup, or red wine and ſugar boiled to a ſyrup ; done thus : take half a pint of red wine, a quarter of a pound of ſugar, and ſet over a ſlow ſire to ſimmier for about a quarter of an hour. You may do half the quantity, and put it into your ſauce-boat or baſon.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Different Sorts of Sauce for a Hare.



To broil ſteaks.

FIRST have a very clear briſk fire : let your gridiron he very clean ; put it on the ſire, and take a chaffing-diſh with a few hot coals out of the fire. Put the diſh on it which is to lay your ſteaks on, then take fine rump ſteaks about half an inch thick ; put a little pepper and ſalt on them, lay them on the gridiron, and (if you like it) take a ſhalot or two, or a fine onion and cut it fine ; put it into your diſh. Don't turn your ſteaks till one ſide is done, then when you turn the other ſide there will ſoon be fine gravy lie on top top of the ſteak, while you muſt be careful not to loſe. Wen the ſteaks are enough, take them carefully oiff into your diſh, that none of the gravy be loſt ; then have ready a hot diſh and cover, and carry them hot to table, with the cover on.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Broil Steaks.



Directions concerning the ſauce for ſteaks

IF you love pickles or horse-radish with ſteaks, never garniſh your diſh, becauſe both the garniſhing will be dry, and the ſteaks will be cold, but lay thoſe things on little plates, and carry to table. The great nicety is to have them hot and full of gravy.



General directions concerning broiling.

AS to mutton and pork ſteaks, you muſt keep them turning quickly on the gridiron, and have our diſh ready a chaffing-diſh of hot coals, and carry them to table covered hot. When you broil fowls or pigeons, always take care your fire is clear ; and never baſte any thing on the gridiron, for it only makes lt ſmoked and burnt.



General directions concerning boiling.

AS to all ſorts of boiled meats, allow a quarter of an hour to every pound ; be ſure the pot is very clean, and ſkim it well, for every thing will have a ſcum riſe, and if that boils down it makes the meat black. All ſorts of freſh meat you are to put in when the water boils, but ſalt meat when the water is cold.



To boil a ham.

WHEN you boil a ham, put it into a copper, if you have one ; let it be about three or four hours before it boils, and keep it well ſkimmed all the time ; then if it is a ſmall one, one hour and a half will boil it, after the copper begins to boil ; and if a large one, two hours will do ; for if you are to conſider the time it has been heating in the water, which ſoftens the ham, and makes it boil the ſooner.

For the modern redaction of this recipe, see the beef entry in the To boil a ham



To boil a tongue.

A TONGUE, if ſalt, put it in the pot over night, and don't let it boil till about three hours before dinner, and then boil all that three hours ; if freſh out of the pickle, two hours, and put it in when the water boils.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To boil a tongue.



To boil fowls and houſe-lamb.

FOWLS and houſe-lamb boil in a pot by themſelves, in a good deal of water, and if any ſcum ariſes take it off. They will be both ſweeter and whiter than if boiled in a cloth. A little chicken will be done in fifteen minutes, a large chicken in twenty minutes, a good fowl in half an hour, a little turkey or gooſe in an hour, and a large turkey in an hour and a half.



Sauce for a boiled turkey.

THE beſt ſsauce to a boiled turkey is this : take a little water, or mutton gravy, if you have it, a blade of mace, an onion, a little bit of thyme, a little bit of lemon-peel, and an anchovy ; boil all theſe together, ſtrain them through a ſieve, melt ſome butter and add to them, fry a few ſauſages and lay round the diſh. Garniſh your diſh with lemon.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Sauce for a boiled turkey.



Sauce for a boiled gooſe.

SAUCE for a boiled gooſe muſt be either onions or cabbage, firſt boiled, and then ſtewed in butter for five minutes.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Sauce for a boiled goose.



Sauce for a boiled ducks or rabbits.

TO boiled ducks or rabbits, you muſt pour boiled onions over them, which do thus : take the onions, peel them, and boil them in a great deal of water ; ſhift your water, then let them boil about two hours, take them up and throw them into a cullender to drain, then with a knife chip them on a board ; put them into a ſauce-pan, juſt ſhake a little flour over them, put in a little milk or cream, with a good piece of butter ; ſet them over the fire, and when the butter is melted they are enough. But if you would have onion ſauce in half an hour, take your onions, peel them, and cut them in this ſlices, put them into milk and water, and when the water boils they will be done in twenty minutes, then throw them into a cullender to drain, and chop them and put them into a ſaucepan ; ſhake in a little flour, with a little cream if you have it, and a good piece of butter ; ſtir all together over the fire till the butter is melted, and they will be very fine. This ſauce is very good with roaſt mutton, and it is the beſt way of boiling onions.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's Sauce for boiled ducks or rabbits.



To roaſt veniſon.

TAKE a haunch of veniſon, and ſpit it. Take four ſheets of white paper, butter them well, and roll about your veniſon, then tie your paper on with a ſnall ſtring, and baſte it very well all the time it is roaſting. If your fire is very good and briſk, two hours will do it ; and, if a ſmall haunch, an hour and a half. The neck and ſhoulder muſtt be done in the ſame manner, which will take an hour and a half, and when it is enough take off the paper, and drudge it with a little flour duſt to make a froth; but you muſt be very quick, for fear the fat ſhould melt. You muſt not put any ſauce in the dish but what comes out of the meat, but have ſome very good gravy and put into your ſauce-boat or baſon. You muſt always have ſweet ſauce with your veniſon in another baſon. If it is a large haunch, it will take two hours and a half.



Different ſorts of ſauce for veniſon.

YOU may take either of theſe ſauces for veniſon. Currant jelly warmed ; or half a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of ſugar, ſimmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes ; or half a pint of vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of ſugar, ſimmered till it is a ſyrup.



To roaſt mutton, veniſon faſhion.

TAKE a hind-quarter of fat mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch ; lay it in a pan with the backſide of it down, pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie twenty-four hours, than ſpit it, and baſte it with the ſame liquor and butter all the time it is roaſting at a good quick fire, and an hour and a half will do it. Have a little good gravy in a cup, and ſweet ſauce in another, A good fat neck of mutton eats finely done thus.



To keep veniſon or hares ſweet ; or to make then freſh when the ſtink.

IF your venison be very ſweet, only dry it with a cloth, and hang it where the air comes. If you would keep it any time, dry it very well with clean cloths, rub it all over with beaten ginger, and hang it in an airy place, and it will keep a great while. If it ſtinks,or is muſty, take ſome lukewarm water, and waſh it clean ; then take freſh milk and water lukewarm, and waſh it again ; then dry it in clean cloths very well, and rub it all over with beaten ginger, and hang it in an airy place. When you roaſt it, you need only wipe it with a clean cloth, and paper it, as before-mentioned. Never do any thing elſe to veniſon, for all other things ſpoil your veniſon, and take away the fine flavour, and this preſerves it better than any thing you can do. A hare you may manage juſt the ſame way.



To roaſt a tongue or udder.

PARBOIL it firſt, then roaſt it, ſtick eight or ten coves about it ; baſte it with butter, and have ſome gravy and ſweet ſauce. An udder eats very well done the ſame way.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To roast a tongue or udder.



To roaſt rabbits.

BASTE them with good butter, and drudge them with a little flour. Half an hour will do them, at a very quick clean fire, and, if they are very ſmall, twenty minutes will do them, Take the liver, with a little bunch of parſley, and boil them, and then chop them very fine together. Melt ſome good butter, and put half the liver and parſley into the butter ; pour it into the diſh, and garniſh the diſh with the other half. Let your rabbits be done of a fine light brown.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To roast rabbits.



To roaſt a rabbit hare faſhion.

LARD a rabbit with bacon ; roaſt it as you do a hare, and it eats very well. But then you muſt make gravy-ſauce ; but if you don't lard it, white ſauce.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To roast a rabbit hare fashion.



Turkies, pheaſants, &c. may be larded.

YOU may lard a turkey or pheaſant, or any thing, juſt as you like it.



To roaſt a fowl pheaſant faſhion.

IF you ſhould have but one pheaſant, and want two in a diſh ; take a large full-grown fowl, keep the head on, truſs it juſt as you do a pheaſant ; lard it with bacon, but don't lard the pheaſant, and nobody will know it.



RULES to be obſerved in ROASTING.

IN the firſt place, take great care the ſpit be very clean ; and be ſure to clean it with nothing but ſand and water. Waſh it clean, and wipe it with a dry cloth ; for oil, brick-duſt, and ſuch things will ſpoil your meat.



BEEF

To roaſt a piece of beef about ten pounds will take an hour and a half, at a good fire. Twenty pounds weight will take three hours, if it be a thick piece ; but if it be a thin piece of twenty pounds weight, two hours and a half will do it ; and ſo on according to the weight of your meat, more or leſs. Obſerve, in froſty weather your beef will take half an hour longer.



MUTTON.

A leg of mutton of ſis pounds will take an hour at a quick fire ; if froſty weather an hour and a quarter ; nine pounds an hour and a half, a leg of twelve pounds will take two hours ; if froſty two hours and a half ; a large ſaddle of mutton will take three hours, because of papering it ; a ſmall ſaddle will take an hour and a half, and ſo on, according to the ſize ; a breaſt will take half an hour at a quick fire ; a neck, if large, an hour ; if very ſmall, a little better than half an hour ; a ſhoulder much about the same time as a leg.



PORK

PORK muſt be well done. To every pound allow a quarter of an hour ; for example ; a joint of twelve pounds weight three hours, and ſo on ; if it be a thin piece of that weight, tow hours will roaſt it.



Directions concerning beef, mutton, and pork.

THESE three you may baſte with fine nice dripping. Be ſure our fire be very good and briſk ; but don't lay your meat too near the fire, for fear of burning or ſcorching.



VEAL.

VEAL takes much the ſame time roaſting as pork ; but be ſure to paper the fat of a loin or fillet, and baſte your veal with good butter.



HOUSE-LAMB.

IF a large fore-quarter, an hour and a half ; if a ſmall one, an hour. The outside muſt be papered, baſted with good butter, and you muſt have a very quick fire. If a leg, about three quarters of an hour ; a neck, a breaſt or ſhroulder, three quarters of an hour ; if very ſmall, half an hour will do.



A PIG.

IF juſt killed, an hour ; if killed the day before, an hour and a quarter ; if a very large one, an hour and a half. But the beſt way to judge, is when the eyes drop out, and the ſkin is grown very hard ; then you muſt rub it with a coarſe cloth, with a good piece of butter rolled in it, till the crackling is criſp and of a fine light brown.



A HARE.

YOU muſt have a quick fire. If it be a ſmall hare, put three pints of milk and half a pound of freſh butter in the dripping-pan, which muſt be very clean and nice ; if a large on, two quarter of milk and half a pound of freſh butter. You muſt baſte your hare well with this all the time it is roaſting ; nad when the hare has ſoaked up all the butter and milk it will be enough.



A TURKY.

A middling turky will take an hour ; a very large on, an hour and a quarter ; a ſmall one, three quarters of an hour. You muſt paper the breaſt will it is near done enough, then take the paper off and froth it up. Your fire muſt be very good.



A GOOSE.

OBSERVE the ſame rules.



FOWLS

A large fowl, three quarters of an hour ; a middling one, half an hour ; very ſmall chickens, twenty minutes. Your fire muſt be very quick and clear when you lay them down.



TAME DUCKS.

OBSERVE the ſame rules.



WILD DUCKS.

TEN minutes at a very quick fire will do them ; but if you love then well done, a quarter of an hour.



TEAL, WIGEON, &c.

OBSERVE the ſame rules.



WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, and PARTRIDGES.

THEY will take twenty minutes.



PIGEONS and LARKS

THEY will take fifteen minutes.



Directions concerning poultry.

IF the fire is not very quick and clear when you lay your poultry down to roaſt, it will not eat near ſo ſweet, or look ſo beautiful to the eys.



To keep meat hot.

THE beſt way to keep meat hot, if it be done before your company is ready, is to ſet the diſh over a pan of boiling water ; cover the diſh with a deep cover ſo as not to tough the meat, and throw a cloth over all. Thus you may keep your meat hot a long time, and it is better than over-roaſting and ſpoiling the meat. The ſteam of the water keeps the meat hot, and don't draw the gravy out, or dry it up ; whereas if you ſet a diſh of meat any time over a chaffing-diſh of coals, it will dry up all the gravy, and ſpoil the meat.



To dreſs Greens, Roots, &c.

ALWAYS be very careful that your greens be nicely picked and waſhed. You ſhould lay them in a clean pan, for fear of ſand or duſt, whick is apt to hang round wooden veſſels. Boil all your greens in a copper ſauce-pan by themſelves, with a great quantity of water. Boil no meat with them, for that diſcolours them. Uſe no iron pans, &c. for they are not proper ; but let them be copper, braſs, or ſilver.



To dreſs ſpinach.

PICK it very clean, and waſh it in five or ſix waters ; put it in a ſauce-pan that will juſt hold it, throw a little ſalt over it, and cover he pan cloſe. Don't put any water in, but ſhake the pan often. You muſt put your ſauce-pan on a clear quick fire. As ſoon as you find the greens are ſhrunk and fallen to the bottom, and that the liquor which comes out of them boils up, they are enough. Throw them into a clean ſieve to drain and juſt give them a little ſqueeze. Lay them in a plate, and never put any butter on it but put it in a cup.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress spinach.



To dreſs cabbages, &c.

CABBAGE, and all ſorts of young ſprouts, muſt be boiled in a great deal of water. When the ſtalks are tneder, or fall to the bottom, they are enough ; then take them off, before they loſe their colour. Always throw ſalt in your water before your put your greens in. Young ſprouts you ſend to table ſust as they are, but cabbage is beſt chopped and put into a ſauce-pan with a good piece of butter, ſtirring and put into a ſauce-pan with a good piece of butter, ſtirring it or about five or ſix minutes, till the butter is all melted, and then ſend it to table.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress cabbages.



To dreſs carrots.

LET them be ſcraped very clean, and when they are enough rub them in a clean cloth, then ſlice them into a plate, and pour ſome melted butter over them. If they are young ſpring carrots, half an hour will boil them ; if large, an hour ; but old Sandwich carrots will take two hours.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress carrots.



To dreſs turnips.

THEY eat beſt boiled in the pot, and when enough take them out and put them in a pan and maſh them with butter and a little ſalt, and ſend them to table. But you may do them thus : pare your turnips, and cut them into dice, as big as the top of one's finger ; put them into a clean ſaucepan, and juſt cover them with water. When enough, throw them into a ſieve to drain, and put them into a ſaucepan with a good piece of butter ; ſtir them over the fire for five or ſix minutes, and ſend them to table.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress turnips.



To dreſs parſnips.

THEY ſhould be boiled in a great deal of water, and when you find they are ſoft (which you will know by running a fork into them) take them up, and carefully ſcrape all the dirt off them, and then with a knife ſcrape them all fine, throwing away all the ſticky parts ; then put them into a ſaucepan with ſome milk, and ſtri them over the fire till they are thick. Take great care they don't burn, and add a good piece of butter and a little ſalt, and when the butter is melted ſend them to table.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress parsnips.



To dreſs brockala.

STRIP all the little branches off till you come to the top one, then with a knife peel off all the hard outſide ſkin, which is on the ſtalks and little branches, and throw them into water. Have a ſtew-pan of water with ſome ſalt in it : when it boils put in the brockala, and when the ſtalks are tender it is enough, then ſend it to table with butter in a cup. The French eat oil and vinegar with it.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress brockala.



To dreſs potatoes.

YOU muſt boil them in as little water as you can, without burning the ſaucepan. Cover the ſaucepan cloſe, and when the ſkin begins to crack they are enough. Drain all the water out, and let them ſtand covered for a minute or two ; then peel them, lay them in your plate, and pour ſome melted butter over them. The beſt way to do them is, when they are peeled to lay them on a gridiron till they are of a fine brown, and ſend them to table. Another way is to put them into a ſaucepan with ſome good beef dripping, cover them cloſe, and ſhake the ſaucepan often for fear of burning to the bottom. When they are of a fine brown and criſp, take them up in a plate, then put them into another for fear of the fat, and put butter in a cup.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress potatoes.



To dreſs cauliflowers.

TAKE your flowers, cut off all the green part, and then cut the flowers into four, and lay them into water for an hour : then have ſome milk and water boiling, put in the cauliflowers, and be ſure to ſkim the ſauce-pan well. When the ſtalks are tender, take them carefully up, and put them into a cullender to drain : then put a ſpoonful of water into a clean ſtew-pan with a little duſt of flower, about a quarter of a pound of butter, and ſhake it round till it is all finely melted, with a little pepper and ſalt ; then take half the cauliflower and cut it as you would for pickling, lay it into the ſtew-pan, turn it, and ſhake the pan round. Ten minutes will do it. Lay the ſtewed in the middle of your plate, and the boiled round it. Pour the butter you did it in over it, and ſend to table.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress cauliflowers.



To dreſs French beans.

FIRST ſtring them, then cut them in two, and afterwards acroſs : but if you would do them nice, cut the bean into flour, and then acroſs, which is eight pieces. Lay them into water and ſalt, and when your pan boils put in ſome ſalt and the beans : when they are tender they are enough ; they will be ſoon done. Take care they do not loſe their fine green. Lay them in a plate, and have butter in a cup.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress French beans.



To dreſs artichokes.

WRING off the ſtalks, and put them into the water cold, with the tops downwards, that all the duſt and ſand may boil out. When the water boils, an hour and a half will do them.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress artichokes.



To dreſs aſparagus.

SCRAPE all the ſtalks very carefully till they look white, then cut all the ſtalks even alike, throw them into water, and have ready a ſtew-pan boiling. Put in ſome ſalt, and tie the aſparagus in little bundles. Let the water keep boiling, and when they are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too much you loſe both colour and taſte. Cut the round of a ſmall loaf about half an inch thick, toaſt it brown on both ſides, dip it in the aſparagus liquor, and lay it in your diſh ; pour a little butter over the toaſt, then lay your aſparagus on the toaſt all round the diſh, with the white tops outward. Don't pour butter over the aſparagus, for that makes them greaſy to the fingers, but have your butter in a baſon, and ſend it to table.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To dress asparagus.



Directions concerning garden things.

MOST people ſpoil garden things by over-boiling them. All things that are green ſhould have a little criſpneſs, for it they are over-boiled they neither have any ſweetneſs or beauty.



To dreſs beans and bacon.

WHEN you dreſs beans and bacon, boil the bacon by itſsef, and the beans by themſelves, for the bacon will ſpoil the conlour of the beans. Always throw ſome ſalt into the water, and ſome parſley nicely picked. When the beans are enough (which you will know by their being tender) throw them into a cullender to drain. Take up the bacon and ſkin it ; throw ſome raſpings of bread over the top, and if you have an iron make it red-hot and hold over it, to brown the top of the bacon : if you have not one, ſet it before the fire to brown. Lay the beans in the diſh, and the bacon in the middle on the top, and ſend them to table with butter in a baſon.



To make gravy for a turkey, or any ſort of fowls.

TAKE a pound of the lean part of the beef, hack it with a knife, flour it well, have ready a ſtew-pan with a piece or freſh butter. When the butter is melted put in the beef, fry it till it is brown. and then pour in a little boiling water ; ſhake it round, and then fill up with a tea-kettle of boiling water. Stir it together, and put in two or three blades of mace, four or five cloves, ſome whole pepper, an onion, a bundle of ſweet herbs, a little cruſt of bread baked brown, a little pice of carrot. Cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew till it is as good as you would have it. This will make a pint of rich gravy.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To make gravy for a turkey.



To draw mutton, beef, or veal gravy.

TAKE a pound of meat, cut it very thin, lay a piece of bacon about two inches long, at the bottom of the ſtew-pan or ſauce-pan, and lay the meat on it. Lay on ſome carrot, and cover it cloſe for two or three minutes, then pour in a quart of boiling water, ſome ſpice, onion, ſweet herbs, and a little cruſt of bread toaſted. Let it do over a ſlow fire, and thicken it with a little piece of butter rolled in flour. When the gravy is as good as you would have it, ſeaſon it with ſalt, and then ſtrain it off. You may omit the bacon, if you diſlike it.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To draw mutton, beef, or veal gravy.



To burn butter for thickening of ſauce.

SET your butter on the fire, and let it boil till it is brown, then ſhake in ſome flour, and ſtir it all the time it is on the fire till it is thick. Put it by, and keep it for uſe. A little piece is what the cooks uſe to thicken and brown their ſauce ; but there are few ſtomachs it agrees with, therefore ſeldom make uſe of it.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To burn butter for thickening of ſauce.



To make gravy.

IF you live in the country, where you cannot always have gravy-meat, when your meat comes from the butcher's take a piece of beef, a piece of veal, and a piece of mutton : cut them into as ſmall pieces as you can, and take a large deep ſauce-pan with a cover, lay your beef at bottom, then your mutton, then a very little piece of bacon, a ſlice or two of carrot, ſome mace, cloves, whole pepper black and white, a large onion cut int ſlices, a bundle of ſweet herbs, and then lay in your vessel. Cover it cloſe over a ſlow fire for ſix or ſeven minutes, ſhaking the ſauce-pan now and then ; then ſhake ſome flour in, and have ready ſome boiling water ; pour it in till you cover the meat and ſomething more. Cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew till it is quite rich and good ; then ſeaſon it to your taſte with ſalt, and then ſtrain it off. This will do for moſt things.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To make gravy.



To make gravy for ſoops, &c.

TAKE a leg of beef, cut and hack it, put it into a large earthen pan, put to it a bundle of ſweet herbs, two onions ſtuck with a few cloves, a blade or two of mace, a piece of carrot, a ſpoonful of whole pepper black and white, and a quart of ſtale beer. Cover it with water, tie the pot down cloſe with brown peper rubbed with butter, ſend it to the oven, and let it be well baked. When it comes home, ſtrain it through a coarſe ſieve ; lay the meat into a clean diſh as you ſtrain it, and keep it for uſe. It is a fine thing in a houſe, and will ſerve for gravy, thickened with a piece of butter, red wine, catchup, or whatever you have a mind to put in, and is always ready for ſoups of moſt ſorts. If you have peas ready boiled, your ſoup will ſoon be made : or take ſome of the broth and ſome vermicelli, boil it together, fry a French roll and put in the middle, and you have good ſoup. You may add a few truffles and morels, or celery ſtewed tender, and then you are always ready.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To make gravy for ſoops.



To bake a leg of beef.

DO it juſt in the ſame manner as before directed in the making gravy for ſoups, &c. and when it is baked, ſtrain it through a coarſe ſieve. Pick out all the ſinews and fat, put them into a ſauce-pan with a few ſpoonfuls of the gravy, a little red wine, a little piece of butter rolled in flour, and ſome muſtard, ſhake your ſauce-pan often, and when the ſauce is hot and thick, diſh it up, and ſend it to table. It is a pretty diſh.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To bake a leg of beef.



To bake an ox's head.

DO juſt in the ſame manner as the leg of beef is directed to be done in making the gravy for ſoups, &c. and it does full as well for the ſame uſes. If it ſhould be ſtrong for any thing you want it for, it is only putting ſome hot water to it. Cold water will ſpoil it.



To boil pickled pork.

BE ſure you put it in when the water boils. If a middling piece, an hour will boil it ; if a very large piece, an hour and a half, or two hours. If you boil pickled pork too long, it will go to jelly.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To boil pickled pork.





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