Welcome to Celtnet's Hannah Glassse's Recipes for To Pot and Make Hams — This page gives you the entire contents of the Thirteenth Chapter: 'To pot, and make Hams, &c.' from Hannah Glasses's 1747 volume,
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Hannah Glasse's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
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Hanna Glasse's Thirteenth Chapter
CHAP. XIII.
To pot, and make Hams, &c.
To pot pigeons or fowls.
CUT off their legs, draw them and wipe then with a cloth, but don't waſh them. Seaſon them pretty well with pepper and ſalt, put them into a pot, with as much butter as you think will cover them, when melted, and baked very tender ; then drain them very dry from the gravy ; lay them on a cloth ; and that will ſuck up all the gravy ; ſeaſon them again with ſalt, mace, clove and pepper, beaten fine, and put them down cloſe into a pot. Take the butter, when cold, clear from the gravy, ſet it before the fire to melt, and pour over the birds ; if you have not enough, clarify ſome more, and let the butter be near an inch thick above the birds. Thus you may do all ſorts of fowl ; only wild fowl ſhould be boned, but that you may do as you pleaſe.
To pot a cold tongue, beef, or veniſon.
CUT it ſmall, beat it well in a marble mortar, with melted butter, and two anchovies, till the meat is mellow and fine ; then put it down cloſe in your pots, and cover it with clarified butter. Thus you may do cold water fowl ; or you may put any ſort of cold fowl whole, ſeaſoning them with what ſpice you pleaſe.
To pot veniſon.
TAKE a piece of veniſon, fat and lean together, lay it in a diſh, and ſtick pieces of butter all over : tie brown paper over it, and bake it. When it comes out of the oven, take it out of the liquor hot, drain it, and lay it in a diſh ; when cold, take off all the ſkin, and beat it in a marble mortar, fat and lean together, ſeaſon it with mace, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, and ſalt to your mind. When the butter is cold that it was baked in, take a little of it, and beat in with it to moiſten it ; then put it down cloſe, and cover it with clarified butter.
You muſt be ſure to beat it till it is like a paſte.
To pot tongues.
TAKE a neat's tongue, rub it with a pound of white ſalt, an ounce of ſalt-petre, half a pound of coarſe ſugar, rub it well, turn it every day in this pickle for a fortnight. This pickle will do ſeveral tongues, only adding a little more white ſalt ; or we generally do them after our hams. Take the tongue out of the pickle, cut off the root, and boil it well, till it will peel ; then take your tongues and ſeaſon them with ſalt, pepper, cloves, mace and nutmeg, all beat fine ; rub it well with your hands whilſt it is hot ; then put it in a pot, and melt as much butter as will cover all over. Bake it an hour in the oven, then take it out, let it ſtand to cool, rub a little freſh ſpice on it ; and when it is quite cold, lay it in your pickling pot. When the butter is cold you baked it in, take if off clean from the gravy, ſet it in an earthen pan before the fire ; and when it is melted, pour it over the tongue. You may lay pigeons or chickens on each ſide ; be ſure to let the butter be about an inch above the tongue.
A fine way to pot a tongue.
TAKE a dried tongue, boil it till it is tender, then peel it ; take a large fowl, bone it ; a gooſe, bone it ; take a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a large nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, beat all well together ; a ſpoonful of ſalt ; rub the inſide of the fowl well , and the tongue. Put the tongue into the fowl ; then ſeaſon the gooſe, and fill the gooſe with the fowl and tongue, and the gooſe will look as if it was whole. Lay it in a pan that will juſt hold it, melt freſh butter enough to cover it, ſend it to the oven, and bake it an hour and a half ; then uncover the pot, and take out the meat. Carefully drain it from the butter, lay it on a coarſe cloth till it is cold ; and when the butter is cold, take off the bird fat from the gravy, and lay it before the fire to melt, put your meat into the pot again, and pour the butter over. If there is not enough, clarify more, and let teh butter be an inch above the meat ; and this will keep a great while, eats fine, and looks beautiful. When you cut it, it muſt be cut croſs-ways down through, and looks very pretty. It makes a pretty corner-diſh at table, or ſide-diſh for ſupper. If you cut a ſlice down the middle quite through, lay it in a plate, and garniſh with green parſley and ſtertion-flowers. If you will be at the expense, bone a turkey and put over the gooſe. Obſerve, when you pot it, to ſave a little of the ſpice to throw over it, before the laſt butter is put on, or the meat will not be ſeaſoned enough.
To pot beef like veniſon.
CUT the lean of a buttock of beef into round pieces ; for eight pounds of beef, take four ounces of ſalt-petre ; four ounces of peter-ſalt, a pint of white ſalt, and an ounce of ſal-prunells, beat the ſalts very fine, mix them well together, rub the ſalts into the beef ; then let it lie four days, turning it twice a day, then put it into a pan, cover it with pump-water, and a little of its own brine ; then bake it in an oven with houſhold bread till it is tender as a chicken, then drain it from the gravy and bruiſe it abroad, and take out all the ſkin and ſinews ; then pound it, in a marble mortar, then lay it in a borad diſh, mix in it an ounce of cloves and mace, three quarters of an ounce of pepper and one nutmeg, all beat fine. Mix it all very well with the meat, then clarify a little freſh butter and mix with the meat, to make it a little moiſt ; mix it very well together, preſs it down into pots very hard, ſwet it at the oven's mouth juſt to ſettle, and cover it two inches thick with clarified butter. When cold, cover it with white paper.
To pot Cheſhire cheeſe.
TAKE three pounds of Cheſhire cheeſe, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of the beſt freſh butter you can get, pound them together, and in the beating add a gill of rich Canary wine, and hal an ounce of mace finely beat, then ſifted lite a fine powder. When all is extremely well mixed, preſs it hard down into a gallipot, cover it with clarified butter, and keep it cool. A ſlice of this exceeds all the cream cheeſe that can be made.
To collar a breaſt of veal, or pig.
BONE the pig, or veal, then ſeaſon it all over the inſide with cloves, mace and ſalt beat fine, a handful of ſweet-herbs ſtripped of their ſtalks, and a little penny-royal or parſley ſhred very fine, with a little ſage ; then roll it up as you do brawn, bind it with narrow tape very cloſe, then tie a cloth round it, and boil it very tender in vinegar and water, a little quantitiy, with a little cloves, mace, pepper, and ſalt, all whole. Make it boil, then put in the collars, when boiled tender, take them up ; and wehn both are cold, take off the cloth, lay the collar in an earthen pan, and pour the liquor over ; cover it cloſe, and keep it for uſe. If the pickle begins to ſpoil, ſtrain it through a coarſe cloth, boil it and ſkim it ; when cold, pour it over. Obſerve, before you ſtrain the pickle, to waſh the collar, wipe it dry, and wipe the pan clean. Strain it again after it is boiled, and cover it very cloſe.
To collar beef.
TAKE a thin piece of flank-beef, and ſtrip the ſkin to the end, beat it with a rolling-pin, then diſſolve a quarter of peter-ſalt in five quarts of pump-water, ſtrain it, put the beef in, and let it lie five days, ſometimes turning it ; then take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a good nutmeg, a little mace, a little pepper, beat very fine, and a handful of thyme ſtripped off the ſtalks ; mix it with the ſpice, ſtrew all over the beef, lay on the ſkin again, then roll it up very cloſe, tie it hard with tape, then put it into a pot, with a pint of claret, and bake it in the oven with the bread.
Another way to ſeaſon a collar of beef.
TAKE the ſurloin or flank of beef, or any part you think proper, and aly in as much pump-water as will cover it ; put to it four ounces of ſalt-petre, five or ſix handfuls of white ſalt, let it lie in three days, then take it out, and take half an ounce of cloves and mace, one nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of coriander-ſeeds, beat theſe well together, and half an ounce of pepper, ſtrew them upon the inſide of the beef, roll it up, and bind it up with coarſe tape. Bake it in the ſame pickle : and when it is baked, take it out, hang it in a net to drain, within the air of the fire three days, and put it into a clean cloth, and hang it up again within the air of the fire ; for it muſt be kept dry, as you do neats tongues.
To collar ſalmon.
TAKE a ſide of ſalmon, cut off about a handful of the tail, waſh your large piece very well, and dry it with a cloth; then waſh it over with the yolks of eggs, then make ſome force-meat with that you cut off the tail, but take care of the ſkin, and put to it a handful of parboiled oyſters, a tail or two of lobſter, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, ſix anchovies, a good handful of ſweet-herbs chopped ſmall, a little ſalt, cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, all beat fine, and grated bread. Work all theſe together into a body, with the yolks of eggs, lay it al over the flexhsy part, and a little more pepper and ſalt over the ſalmon ; ſo roll it up into a collar, and bind it with borad tape ; then boil it in water, ſalt, and vinegar, but let the liquor boil firſt, then put in your collar, a bunch of ſweet herbs, ſliced ginger and nutmeg. Let it boil, but not too faſt. It will take near two hours boiling ; and when it is enough, take it up : put it into your ſouſing pan, and when the pickle is cold, put it to your ſalmon, and let it ſtand in it till uſed. Or you may pot it ; after it is boiled, pour clarified butter over it. It will keep longeſt ſo ; but either way is good. If you pot it, be ſure the butter be the niceſt you can get.
To make Dutch beef.
TAKE a lean buttock of beef raw, rub it well with brown ſugar all over, and let it lie in a pan or tray two or three hours, turning it two or three times, then ſalt it well with common ſalt and ſalt-petre, and let it lie a fortnight, turning it every day ; then roll it very ſtrait in a coarſe cloth, put it in a cheese-press a day and a night, and hang it to dry in a chimney. When you boil it, you muſt put it in a cloth ; when it is cold, it will cut in ſlivers as Dutch beef.
To make ſham brawn.
BOIL two pair of neats feet tender, take a piece of pork, of the thick flank, and boil it almoſt enough, then pick off the fleſh of the feet, and roll it up in the pork tight, like a collar of brawn ; then take a ſtrong cloth and ſome coarſe tape, roll it tight round with the tape, then tie it up in a cloth, and boil it till a ſtraw will run through it : then take it up, and hang it up in a cloth till it is quite cold ; then put it into ſome ſouſing liquor and uſe it as your own pleaſure.
To ſouſe a turkey, in imitation of ſturgeon.
YOU muſt take a fine large turkey, dreſs it very clean, dry and bone it, then tie it up as you do ſturgeon, put into the pot you boil it one quart of white wine, one quart of water, one quart of good vinegar, a very large handful of ſalt ; let it boil, ſkim it well, and then put in the turkey. When it is enough, take it out and tie it tighter. Let the liquor boil a little longer ; and if you think the pickle wants more vinegar or ſalt, add it when it is cold, and pour it upon the turkey. It will keep ſome months, covering it cloſe from the air, and keeping it in a dry cool place. Eat it with oil, vinegar, and ſugar, juſt as you like it. Some admire it more than ſturgeon ; it looks pretty covered with fennel for a ſide-diſh.
To pickle pork.
BONE your pork, cut it into pieces, of a ſize to lie in the tub or pan you deſign it to lie in, rub your pieces well with ſalt-petre, then take two parts of common ſalt, and two of bay-ſalt, and rub every piece well ; lay a layer of common ſalt in the bottom of your veſsel, cover every piece over with common ſalt, lay them one upon another as cloſe as you can, filling the hollow places on the ſides with ſalt. As your ſalt melts on the top, ſtrew on more, lay a coarſe cloth over the veſsel, a board over that, and a weight on the board to keep it down. Keep it cloſe covered ; it will, thus ordered, keep the whole year. Put a pound of ſalt-petre and two pounds of bay-ſalt to a hog.
A pickle for pork which is to be eaten ſoon.
YOU muſt take two gallons of pump-water, one pound of bay-ſalt, one pound of coarſe ſugar, ſix ounces of ſalt-petre ; boil it all together, and ſkim it when cold. Cut the pork in what pieces you pleaſe, lay it down cloſe, and cover it cloſe from the air, and it will be fit to uſe in a week. If you find the pickle begins to ſpoil, boil it again, and ſkim it ; when it is cold, put it on your pork again.
To make veal hams.
CUT the leg of veal like a ham, then take a pint of bay-ſalt, two ounces of ſalt-petre, and a pound of common ſalt ; mix them together, with an ounce of juniper-berries beat ; rub the ham well, and lay it in a hollow tray. with the ſkinny ſide downwards. Baſte it every day with the pickle for a fortnight, and then hang it in wood-ſmoke for a fortnight. You may boil it, or parboil it and roaſt it. In this pickle you may do tow or three tongues, or a piece of pork.
To make beef hams.
YOU muſt take the leg of a fat, but ſmall beef, the fat Scotch or Welch cattle is beſt, and cut it ham-faſhion. Take an ounce of bay-ſalt, an ounce of ſalt petre, a pound of common ſalt, and a pound of coarſe ſugar (this quantity for about fourteen or fifteen pounds weight, and ſo accordingly, if you pickle the whole quarter) rub it with the above ingredients, turn it every day, and baſte it well with the pickle for a month : take it out and roll it in bran or ſaw-duſt, then hang it in wood-ſmoke, where there is but little fire, and a conſtant ſmoke, for a month ; then take it down, and hang it in a dry place, not hot, and keep it for uſe. You may cut a piece off as you have occaſion, and either boil it or cut it in raſhers, and broil it with poached eggs, or boil a piece, and it eats fine cold, and will ſliver like Dutch beef. After this beef is done, you may do a thick briſcuit of beef in the ſame pickle. Let it lie a month, rubbing it every day with the pickle, then boil it till it is tender, hang it in a dry place, and it eats finely cold, cut in ſlices on a plate. It is a pretty thing for a ſide-diſh, or for ſupper. A ſhoulder of mutton laid in this pickle for a week, hung in wood-ſmoke two or three days, and then boiled with cabbage, is very good.
To make mutton hams.
YOU muſt take a hind-quarter of mutton, cut it like a ham, take one ounce of ſalt-petre, a pound of coarſe ſugar, a pound of common ſalt ; mix them and rub your ham, lay it in a hollow tray with the ſkin downwards, baſte it every day for a fortnight, then roll it in ſaw-duſt, and hang it in the wood-ſmoke, a fortnight ; then boil it, and hang it in a dry place, and cut it out in raſhers. It don't eat well boiled, but eats finely broiled.
To make pork hams.
YOU muſt take a fat hind-quarter of pork, and cut off a fine ham. Take an ounce of ſalt-petre, a pound of coarſe ſugar, and a pound of common ſalt ; mix all together, and rub it well. Let it lie a month in this pickle turning and baſting it every day, then hang it in wood ſmoke as you do beef, in a dry place, ſo as no heat comes to it ; and it you keep them long, hang them a month or two in a damp place, ſo as they will be mouldy, and it will make them cut fine and ſhort. Never lay theſe hams in water till you boil them, an then boil them in a copper, if you have one, or the biggeſt pot you have. Put them in the cold water, and let them be four or five hours before they boil. Skim the pot well and often, till it boils. If it is a very large one, two hours will boil it ; if a ſmall one, an hour and a half will do, provided it be a gread while before the water boils. Take it up half an hour before dinner, pull off the ſkin, and throw raſpings finely ſiſted all over. Hold a red-hot fire ſhovel over it, and when dinner is ready take a few raſpings in a ſieve and ſift all over the diſh ; then lay in your ham, and with your finger make fine figures round the edge of the diſh. Be ſure to boil your ham in as much water as you can, and to keep it ſkimming all the time till it boils. It muſt be at leaſt four hours before it boils.
This pickle does finely for tongues, afterwards to lie in it a fortnight, and then hang in the wood-ſmoke a fortnight, or to boil them out of the pickle.
Yorkſhire is famous for hams ; and the reaſon is this : their ſalt is much finer than ours in London, it is a large clear ſalt, and gives the meat a fine flavour. I uſed to have it from Malden in Eſſex, an that ſalt will make any ham as fine as you can deſire. It is by much the beſt ſalt for ſalting of meat. A deep hollow wooden tray is better than a pan. becauſe the pickle ſwells about it.
When you broil any of theſe hams in ſlices, or bacon, have ſome boiling water ready, and let the ſlices lie a minute or two in the water, then broil them ; it takes out the ſalt, and makes them eat finer.
To make bacon.
TAKE a ſide of pork, then take off all the inſide fat, lay it on a long board or dreſſer, that the blood may run away, rub it well with good ſalt on both ſides, let it lie thus a week ; then take a pint of bay ſalt, a quarter of a pound of ſalt-petre, beat them fine, two pounds of coarſe ſugar, and a quarter of a peck of common ſalt. Lay your pork in ſomething that will hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above ingredients. Lay the ſkinny ſide downwards, and baſte it every day with the pickle for a fortnight ; then hang it in wood-ſmoke as you do the beef, and afterwards hang it in a dry place, but not hot. You are to obſerve, that all hams and bacon ſhould hang clear from every thing, and not againſt a wall.
Obſerve to wipe off all the old ſalt before you put it into this pickle, and never keep bacon or hams in a hot kitchen, or in a room where the ſun comes. It makes them all ruſty.
To ſave potted birds, that begin to be bad.
I HAVE ſeen potted birds, which have come a great way, often ſmell ſo bad, that no body could bear the ſmell for the rankness of the butter, and by managing them in the following manner, have made them as good as ever was eat.
Set a large ſauce-pan of clean water on the fire ; when it boils, take off the butter at the top, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them into the ſauce-pan of water half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a clean cloth inſide and out ; ſo do all till they are quite done. Scald the pot clean ; when the birds are quite cold, ſeaſon them with mace, pepper, and ſalt to your mind, put them down cloſe in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them.
To pickle mackrel, called caveach.
CUT your mackrel into round pieces, and divide one into five or ſix pieces : to ſix large mackrel you may take one ounce of beaten pepper, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful of ſalt. Mix your ſalt and beaten ſpice together, then make two or three holes in each piece, and thruſt the ſeaſoning into the holes with your finger, rub the piece all over with the ſeaſoning, fry them brown in oil, and let them ſtand till they are cold ; then put them into vinegar, and cover them with oil. They will keep well covered a great while, and are delicious.
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The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
