Welcome to Celtnet's Hannah Glassse's Recipes for Captains of Ships — This page gives you the entire contents of the Eleventh Chapter: 'For Captains of Ships' from Hannah Glasses's 1747 volume,
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Hannah Glasse's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
These pages have been written to be as close to the 1747 original as possible, within the limitations of HTML. As a result, the long-s symbol 'ſ' has been used in the text wherever it features in the original. Typically this is used where the s precedes a long letter such as an I, t or 1 or another long-s (to create a ligature), or where the S precedds a curved letter such as an 'a', 'e', 'o' or 's'. As a result, in the original work 'seasoned skirret soop' is typeset 'ſeaſoned ſkirret ſoop'.
You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the
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The text presented here is derived directly from Hannah Glasse's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Hanna Glasse's Elevnth Chapter
CHAP. XI.
For Captains of Ships.
To make catchup to keep twenty years.
TAKE a gallon of ſtrong ſtale beer, one pound of anchovies waſhed from the pickle, a pound of ſhalots, peeled, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of ginger, two quarts of the large muſhroom-flaps rubbed to pieces. Cover all this cloſe, and let it ſimmer till it is half wſted, then ſtrain it through a flannel-bag ; let it ſtand till it is quite cold, then bolle it. You may carry it to the Indies. A ſpoonful of this to a pound of freſh butter melted, makes a fien fish-ſauce ; or in the room of gravy-ſauce. The ſtronger and ſtaler the beer is, the better the catchup will be.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Make Catchup to Keep Twenty Years.
To make fiſh ſauce to keep the wole year.
YOU muſt take twenty-four anchovies, chop them, bones and all, put to them ten ſhalots cut ſmall, a handful of ſcraped horſe-raddiſh, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint of water, one lemon cut into ſlices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, a pint of red wine, twelve cloves, twelve pepper-corns. Boil them together till it comes to a quart ; ſtrain it off, cover it cloſe, and keep it in a cold dry place ; two ſpoonfuls will be ſufficient for a pound of butter.
It is a pretty ſauce either for boiled fowl, veal, &c. or in the room of gravy, lowering it with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Make Fish Sauce to Keep the Whole Year.
To pot dripping to fry fiſh, meat, or fritters, &c.
TAKE ſix pounds of good beef-dripping, boil it in ſoft water, ſtrain it into a pan, let it ſtand til cold ; then take off the hard fat, and ſcrape off the gravy which ſticks to the inſide. Thus do eight times ; when it is cold and hard, take if off clean from the water, put it into a large ſauce-pan, with ſix bay-leaves, twelve cloves, half a pound of ſalt, and a quarter of a pound of whole pepper. Let the fat be all melted and juſt hot ; let it ſtand till it is quite cold, then cover it up. Thus you may do what quantity you pleaſe. The beſt way to keep any ſort of dripping is to turn the pot upſide down, and then no rats can get at it. It will keep on ſhip-board, it will made as fine a puff-paſte cruſt as any butter can do, or cruſt for puddings, &c.
To pickle muſhrooms for the ſea.
WASH them clean with a piece of flannel in ſalt and water ; put them into a ſauce-pan and throw a little ſalt over them. Let them boil up three times in their own liquor, then throw them into a ſieve to drain and ſpread them on a clean cloth ; let them lie till cold, then put them in wide-mouthed botles, put in with them a good deal of whole mace, a little nutmeg ſliced, and a few cloves. Boil the ſugar-vinegar of your own making, with a good deal of whole pepper, ſome races of ginger, and two or three bay-leaves. Let it boil a few minutes, then ſtrain it, when it is cold pour it on, and fill the bottle with muſhroom rat fried ; cork them, tie a bladder, then a leather over them, keep it down cloſe, and in as cool a place as poſſible. As to all other pickles, you have them in the chapter of Pickles.
To make muſhroom powder.
TAKE half a peck of fine large thick muſhrooms freſh, waſh them clean from grit and dirt with a flannel rag, ſcrape out the inſide, cut out all the worms, put them into a kettle over the fire without any water, two large onions ſtuck with cloves, a large handful of ſalt, a quarter of an ounce of mace, two teaſpoonfuls of beaten pepper, let them ſimmer till all the liquor is boiled away, take great care they don't burn ; then lay them on ſieves to dry in the ſun, or in tin plates, and ſet them in a ſlack oven all night to dry, till they will beat to powder. Preſs the powder down hard in a pot, and keep it for uſe. You may put what quantity you pleaſe for the ſauce.
To keep muſhrooms without pickle.
TAKE large muſhrooms, peel them, ſcrape out the inſide, put them into a ſauce-pan, throw a little ſalt over them, and let them boil in their own liquor : then throw them into a ſieve to drain, then lay them on tin plates, and ſet them in a cool oven. Repeat it often till they are perfectly dry, put them in a clean ſtone jar, tie them down tight, and keep them in a dry place. They eat deliciouſly, and look as well as truffles.
To keep artichoke-bottoms dry.
BOIL them juſt ſo as you can pull off the leaves and the choke, cut them from the ſtalks, lay them on tin plates, ſet them in a very cool oven, and repeat it till they are quite dry ; then put them into a ſtone pot, and tie them down. Keep them in a dry place ; and when you uſe them, lay them in warm water till they are tender. Shift the water two or three times. They are fine in almoſt all ſauces cut to little pieces, and put in juſt before your ſauce is enough.
To fry artichke-bottoms.
LAY them in water as above ; then have ready ſome butter hot in the pan, flour the bottoms, and fry them. Lay them in your diſh, and pour melted butter over them.
To ragoo artichoke-bottoms.
TAKE twelve bottoms, ſoften them in warm water, as in the foregoing receipts : take half a pint of water, a piece of the ſtrong ſoop, as big as a ſmall walnut, hlaf a ſpoonful of the catchup, fiver or ſix of the dried muſhrooms, a tea-ſpoonful of the muſhroom powder, ſet it on the fire, ſhake all together, and let it boil ſoftly two or three minutes. Let the laſt water you put to the bottoms boil ; take them out hot, lay them in your diſh, pour the ſauce over them, and ſend them to table hot.
To fricaſey artichoke-bottoms.
SCALD them, lay them in boiling water till they are quite tender ; take half a pint of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, ſtir it all one way till it is thick, then ſtir in a ſpoonful of muſhroom pickle, lay the bottoms in a diſh, and pour the ſauce over them.
To dreſs fiſh.
AS to frying ſish, firſt waſh it very clean, then dry it well and flour it ; take ſome of the beef dripping, make it boiling in the ſtew-pan ; then throw in your fiſh, and fry it of a fine light borwn. Lay it on the bottom of a ſieve or coarſe cloth to drain, and make ſauce according to your fancy.
To bake fiſh.
BUTTER the pan, lay in the fiſh, throw a little ſalt over it and flour ; put a very little water in the diſh, an onion and a bundle of ſweet-herbs, ſtick ſome little bits of butter or the fine dripping on the fiſh. LEt it be baked of a fine light brown ; when enough, lay it on a diſh before the fire, and ſkim off all the fat in the pan ; ſtrain the liquor, and mix it up either with the fiſh-ſauce or ſtrong ſoop, or the catchup.
To make a gravy ſoop.
ONLY boil ſoft water, and put as much of the ſtron ſop to it, as will make it to your palate. Let it boil ; and if it wants ſalt, you muſt ſeaſon it. The receipts for the ſoop you have in the chapter for Soops.
To make a peaſe-ſoop.
GET a quart of peaſe, boil them in two gallons of water ill they are tender, then have ready a piece of ſalt pork or beef, which has been laid in water the night before ; put it into the pot, with two large onions peeled, a bundle of ſweet-herbs, celery, if you have it, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper ; let it boil till the meat is enough, then take it up, and if the ſoop is not enough, let it boil till the ſoop is good ; then ſtrain it, ſet it on again to boil, and rub in a good deal of dry mint. Keep the meat hot ; when the ſoop is ready, put in the meat again for a few minutes and let it boil, then ſerve it away. If you add a piece of portable ſoop, it will be very good. The onion ſoop you have in the Lent chapter.
To make pork-pudding, or beef, &c.
Make a good cruſt with the dripping, or mutton ſuet, if you have it, ſred fine ; make a thick cruſt, take a piece of ſalt pork or beef, which has been twenty-flour hours in ſoft water ; ſeason it with a little pepper, put it into this cruſt, roll it up cloſe, tie it in a cloth, and boil it ; it for about about four or five pounds, boil it five hours.
And when you kill mutton, make a pudding the ſame way, only cut ſteaks thin ; ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt, and boil it three hours, if large ; two hours, if ſmall, and ſo according to ſize.
Apple-pudding made with the ſame cruſt, only pare the apples, core them, and fill your pudding ; if large, it will take five hours boiling. When it is enough, lay it in the diſh, cut a hole in the top, and ſtir in butter nad ſugar ; lay the piece on again, and ſend it to table.
A prune=pudding eats fine, made the ſame way, only when the cruſt is ready, fill it with prunes, and ſweeten it according to your fancy ; cloſe it up, nad boil it two hours.
To make a rice pudding.
TAKE what rice you think proper, tie it looſe in a cloth and boil it an hour : then take it up, and untie it, grate a good deal of nutmeg in, ſtir in a good piece of butter, and ſweeten to your palate. Tie it up cloſe, boil it an hour more, then take it up and turn it into your diſh; melt butter, with a little ſugar and a little white wine for ſauce.
To make a ſuet-pudding.
GET a pound of ſuet ſhred fine, a pound of flour, a pound of currants picked clean, half a pound of raiſins ſtoned, two tea-ſpoonfuls of beaten ginger, and a ſpoonful of tincture of ſaffron ; mix all together with ſalt water very thick ; then either boil or bake it.
A liver-pudding boiled.
GET the liver of a ſheep when you kill one, and cut it as thin as you can, and chop it ; mix it with as much ſuet ſhred fine, half as many crumbs of bread or biſcuit grated, ſeaſon it with ſome ſweet-herbs ſhred fine, a little nutmeg grated, a little beaten pepper, and an anchovy fhred fine ; mix all together with a little ſalt, or the anchovy liquor, with a piece of butter, fill the cruſt and cloſe it. Boi it three hours.
To make an oatmeal-pudding.
GET a pint of oatmeal once cut, a pound of ſuet ſhred fine, a pound of currants, and half a pound of raiſins ſtoned, mix all together well with a little ſalt, tie it in a cloth, leaving room for the ſwelling.
To bake an oatmeal-pudding.
BOIL a quart of water, ſeaſon it with a little ſalt ; when the water boils, ſtir in the oatmeal till it is ſo thick you can't eaſily ſtir your ſpoon ; then take it off the fire, ſtir in two ſpoonfuls of brandy, or a gill of mountain, and ſweeten it to your palate. Grate in a lttle nutmeg, and ſtir in half a pound of currants clean waſhed and picked; then butter a pan, pour it in, and bake it half an hour.
A rice-pudding baked.
BOIL a pound of rice juſt til it is tender ; then drain all the water from it as dry as you can, but don't ſqueeze it ; then ſtir in a good piece of butter, and ſweeten to your palate. Grate a ſmall nutmeg in, ſtir it all well together, butter a pan, and pur it in and bake it. You may add a few currants for change.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's A rice-pudding baked.
To make a peaſe-pudding.
BOIL it till it is quite tender, then take it up, until it, ſtir in a good piece of butter, a little ſalt, and a good deal of beaten pepper, then tie it up tight again, boil it an hour longer, and it will eat fine. All other puddings you have in the chapter of Puddings.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To make pease pudding.
To make a harrico of French beans.
TAKE a pint of the ſeeds of French beans, which are ready-dried for ſowing, waſh them clean, and put them into a two-quart ſauce-pan, fill it with water, and let them boil two hours ; if the water waſtes away too much, you muſt put in more boiling water to keep them boiling. In the mean time take almoſt half a pound of nice freſh butter, put it into a clean ſtew-pan, and when it is all melted, and done making noiſe, have ready a pint baſon heaped up with onions peeled and ſliced thin, throw them into the pan, and fry them of a fine brown, ſtirring them about that they may be all alike, then pour off the clear water from the beans into a baſon, and throw the beans all into the ſtew-pan ; ſtir all together, and throw in a larte tea-ſpoonful of beaten pepper, two heaped full of ſalt, and ſtir it all together for two or three minutes. You may make this diſh of what thickneſs you think proper (either to eat with a ſpoon, or other-ways) with the liquor your poured off the beans. For change, you may make it thin enough for ſoop. When it is of the proper thickneſs you like it, take it off the fire, and ſtir in a large ſpoonful of vinegar and the yolks of two eggs beat. The eggs may be left out, if diſliked. Diſh it up, and ſend it to table.
To make a fowl-pie.
FIRST make rich thick cruſt, cover the diſh with the paſte, then take ſome very fine bacon, or cold boiled ham, ſlice it, and lay a layer all over. Seaſon with a little pepper, then put in the fowl, after it is picked and cleaned, and ſinged ; ſhake a very little pepper and ſalt into the belly, put in a little water, cover it with ham, ſeaſoned with a little beaten pepper, put on the lid and bake it two hours. When it comes out of the oven, take half a pint of water, boil it, and add to it as much of the ſtrong ſoop as will make the gravy quite rich, pour it boiling hot into the pan and lay on the lid again. Send it to table hot. Or lay a piece of beef or pork in ſoft water twenty-four hours, ſlice it in the room of the ham, and it will eat fine.
To make a Cheſhire pork-pie for ſea.
TAKE ſome ſalt pork that has been boiled, cut it into thin ſlices, an equal quantity of potatoes pared and ſliced thin, make a good cruſt, cover the diſh, lay a layer of meat ſeaſoned with a little pepper, and a layer of potatoes ; then a layer of meat, a layer of potatoes, and ſo on till your pie is full. Seaſon it with pepper ; when it is full, lay ſome butter on top, and fill your diſh above half full of ſoft water. Cloſe your pie up, and bake it in a gentle oven.
To make ſea veniſon.
WHEN you kill a ſheep, keep ſtirring the blood all the time till it is cold, or at leaſt as cold as it will be, that it may not congeal ; then cut up the ſheep, take one ſide, cut the leg like a haunch, cut off the ſhoulder and loin, the neck and breaſt in two, ſteep them all in the blood, as long as the weather will permit you, then take out the haunch, and hang it ouf of the ſun as long as you can to be ſweet, and roaſt it as you do a haunch of verniſon. It will eat very fine, eſpecially if the heat will give you leave to keep it long. Take off all the ſuet before you lay it in the blood, take the other joints and lay them in a large pan, pour over them a quart of red wine, and a quart of rape vinegar. Lay the fat ſide of the meat downwards in the pan, on a hollow tray is beſt, and pour the wine and vinegar over it : let it lie twelve hours, then take the neck, breaſt, and loin, out of the pickle, let the xhoulder lie a week, if the heat will let you, rub it with bay-ſalt, ſalt-petre, and coarſe ſugar, of each a quarter of an ounce, one handful of common ſalt, and let it lie a week or ten days. Bone the neck, breaſt, and loin ; ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt to you palate, and make a paſty as you do veniſon. Boil the bones for gravy to fill the pie, when it comes out of the oven ; and the ſhoulder boil freſh out of the pickle, with a pease-pudding.
And when you cut up the ſheep, take the heart, liver, and lights, boil them a quarter of an hour, then cut them ſmall, and chop them very fine ; ſeaſon them with four large blades of mace, twelve cloves, and a large nutmeg all beat to powder. Chop a pound of ſuet fine, half a pound of ſugar, two pounds of currants clean waſhed, half a pint of red wine, mix all well together, and make a pie. Bake it an hour, it is very rich.
To make dumplings when you have white bread.
TAKE the crumb of a two-penny-loaf grated fine, as much beef-ſuet ſhred as fine as poſſible, a little ſalt, half a ſmall nutmeg grated, a large ſpoonful of ſugar, beat two eggs with two ſpoonfuls of ſack, mix all well together, and roll them up as big as a turkey's egg. Let the water boil, and throw them in. Half an hour will boil them. For ſauce, melt butter with a little ſack, lay the dumplings in a diſh, pour the ſauce over them, and ſtrew ſugar over the diſh.
Theſe are very pretty, either at land or ſea. You muſt obſerve to rub your hands with flour, when you make them up.
The portable ſoop to carry abroad, you have in the Sixth Chapter.
Back to the contents of Hannah Glasse's 1774 book
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
