Celtnet Hannah Glasse Recipes from the Appendix to the Art of Cookery

Welcome to Celtnet's Hannah Glassse's Appendix to the Art of Cookery — This page gives you the entire contents of the Directions for the Appendix: 'Appendix to the Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy' from Hannah Glasses's 1747 volume, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Hannah Glasse's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...

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You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the glossary of cooking and food terms pages on this site.

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Hanna Glasse's Appendix

APPENDIX

TO THE

ART of COOKERY

MADE

PLAIN and EASY.

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APPENDIX.

Obſervations on preſerving Salt Meat, ſo as to keep it mellow and fine for three or four Months ; and to preſerve potted Butter.

TAKE care when you ſalt your meat in the ſummer, that it be quite cool after it comes from the butchers ; that way is, to lay it on cold bricks for a few hours, and when you ſalt it, lay it up on an inclining board, to drain off the blood ; then ſalt it a-freſh, add to every pound of ſalt half a pound of Liſbon ſugar, and turn it in the pickle every day ; at the month's end it will be fine : the ſalt which is cmmonly uſed, hardens and ſpoils all the meat ; the right ſort it that called Lownde's ſalt ; it comes from Nantich in Cheſhire : there is a very fine ſort that comes from Malden in Eſſex, and from Suffolk, which is the reaſon of that butter being finer than any other ; and if every body would make uſe of that ſalt in potting butter, we ſhould not have ſo much bad come to markey ; obſerving all the general rules of a dairy. If you keep your meat long in ſalt, half the quantity of ſugar will do ; and then beſtow loaf ſugar, it will eat much finer. This pickle cannot be called extravagant, becauſe it will keep great while ; at three or four months end, boil if up ; if you have no meat in the pickle, ſkim it, and when cold, only add a little more ſalt and ſugar to the next meat you put in, and it will be good a twelvemonth longer.
     Take a leg of mutton piece, veiny or thick flank-piece, without any bone, pickled as above, only add to every pound of ſalt and ounce of ſalt-petre ; after being a month or two in the pickle, take it out, and lay it in ſoft water a few hours, then roaſt it ; it eats fine. A leg of mutton, or ſhoulder of veal does the ſame. It is a good thing where a market is at a great diſtance, and a large family obliged to provide a gread deal of meat.
     As to the pickling of hams and tongues, you have the receipt in the foregoing chapters ; but uſe either of theſe fine ſalts, and they will be equal to any Bayonne hams, prvided your porkling is fine an well fed.

To dreſs a mock turtle.

TAKE a calf's head, and ſcald off the hair, as you would do off a pig ; then clean it, cut of he horny part in thin ſlices, with as little of the lean as poſſible ; put in a few chopp'd oyſters, and the brains ; have ready between a quart and three pints of ſtrong mutton or veal gravy, with a quart of Madeira wine, a large tea ſpoonful of Cayan butter, a large onion chopped very ſmall ; peel off an half of a large lemon, ſhred as fine as poſſible, a little ſalt, the juice of four lemons, and ſome ſweet-herbs cut ſmall ; ſtew all theſe together till the meat is very tender, which will be in about an hour and a half ; and then have ready the back ſhell of a turtle, lined with a paſte of flour and water, which you muſt firſt ſet into the oven to harden ; then put in the ingredients, and xet into the oven to brown on top ; and when that is done, ſuit your garniſh at the top with the yolks of eggs boiled hard, and force-meat balls.
     N. B. This recipt is for a large head ; if you cannot get the ſell of a turtle, a china-ſoop-diſh will do as well ; and if no oven is at hand, the ſetting may be omitted, and if no oyſters are to be had, it is very good without.
     It has been dreſſed with but a pint of wine, and the juice of two lemons.
     When the horny part is boiled a little tender, then put in your white meat.
     It will do without the oven, and take a fine knuckle of veal, cut off the ſkin, and cut ſome o the fine firm lean into ſmall pieces, as you do the white meat of a turtle, and ſtew it with the other white meat above.
     Take the firm hard fat which grows between the meat, and lay that into the ſauce of ſpinage or ſorrel, till half an hour before the above is ready ; then take it out, and aly it on a ſieve to drain ; and put in juice to ſtew with the above. The remainder of the knuckle will help the gravy.

To ſtew a buttock of beef.

TAKE the beef that is ſoaked, waſh it clean from ſalt, and let it lie an hour in ſoft water ; then take it out, and put it into your pot, as you would to do boil, but put no water in, cover it cloſe with the lid, and let it ſtand over a middling fire, not fierce, but rather ſlow : it will take juſt the ſame time to do, as if it was to be boiled ; when it is about half done, throw in an onion, a little bundle of ſweet-herbs, a little mace and whole pepper ; cover it down quick again ; boil roots and herbs as uſual to tat with it. Send it to table with the gravy in the diſh.

To ſtew green peaſe the Jews way.

TO two full quarts of peaſe put in a full quarter of a pint o oil and water, not ſo much water as oil ; a little different ſort of ſpices, as mace, clove, pepper, and nutmeg, and beat fine ; a little Cayan pepper, a little ſalt ; let all this ſtew in a board, flat pipkin ; when they are half done, with a ſpon make two or three holes ; into each of theſe holes break and egg, yolk and white ; take one egg and beat it, and throw over the whole when enough, which you will know by taſting them ; and the egg being quite hard, ſend them to table.
     If they are not done in a very broad, open thing, it will be a great difficulty to get them out to lay in a diſh.
     They would be better done in a ſilver or tin diſh, on a ſtew-hole, and go to table in the ſame diſh : it is much better than putting them out into another diſh.

To dreſs haddocks after the Spanish way.

TAKE a haddock, waſhed very clean and dried, and broil it nicely ; then take a quarter of a pint of oil in a ſtew pan, ſeaſon it with mace, cloves, and nutmeg, pepper and ſalt, two cloves of garlick, ſome love apples, when in ſeaſon, a little vinegar ; put in the fiſh, cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew half an hour over a ſlow fire.
     Flounders done in the ſame way, are very good.

Minced haddocks after the Dutch way.

BOIL them, and take out all the bones, mince them very fine with parſley and onions ; ſeaſon with nutmeg, pepper and ſalt, and ſtew them in butter, juſt enough to keep moiſt ſqueeze the juice of a lemon, and when cold, mix them up with eggs, and put into a puff-paſte.

To dreſs haddocks the Jews way.

TAKE two large fine haddocks, waſh them very clean, cut them in ſlices about three inches thick, and dry them in a cloth ; take a gill either of oil or butter in a ſtew-pan, a middling onion cut ſmall, a handful of parſley waſhed and cut ſmall ; let it juſt boil up in either butter or oil, then put in the fiſh ; ſeaſon it with beaten mace, pepper and ſalt, half a pint of ſoft water ; let it ſtew ſoftly, till it is thoroughly done ; then take the yolks of two eggs, beat up with the juice of a lemon, and juſt as it is done enough, throw it over, and ſend it to table.

A Spaniſh peaſe ſoop

TAKE one pound of Spanish peaſe, and lay them in water the night before you uſe them ; then take a gallon of water, one quart of fine ſweet oil, a head of garlick ; cover the pot cloſe, and let it boil till the peaſe are ſoft ; then ſeaſon with pepper and ſalt ; then beat up the yolk of an egg, and vinegar to your palate ; poach ſome eggs, lay in the diſh on ſippets, and pour the ſoop on them. Sent it to table.

To make onion ſoop the Spaniſh way.

TAKE two large Spaniſh onions, peel and ſlice them ; let them boil very ſoftly in half a pint of ſweet oil till the onions are very ſoft ; then pour on them tree pints of boiling water ; ſeaſon with beaten pepper, ſalt, a little beaten clove and mace, two ſpoonfuls of vinegar, a handful of parſley waſhed clean, and chopped fine : let it boil faſt a quarter of an hour ; in the mean time, get ſome ſippets to cover the bottom of the diſh, fried quick, not hard ; lay them in the diſh, and cover each ſippet with a poached egg ; beat up the yolks of two eggs, and throw over them ; pour in your ſoop, and ſend it to table
     Garlick and ſorrel done the ſame way, eats well.

Milk ſoop the Dutch way.

TAKE a quart of milk, boil it with cinnamon and moiſt ſugar ; put ſippets in the diſh, pour the milk over it, and ſet it over a charcoal fire to ſimmer, till the bread is ſoft. Take the yolks of two eggs, beat them up, and mix it with a little of the milk, and throw it in ; mix it all together, and ſend it up to table.

Fiſh paſties the Italian way.

TAKE ſome flour, and knead it with oil ; take a ſlice of ſalmon ; ſeaſon it with pepper and ſalt, and dip into ſweet oil, chop onion and parſley fine, and ſtrew over it ; lay it in the paſte, and double it up in the ſhape of a ſlice of ſalmon : take a piece of white paper, oil it, and lay under the paſty, and bake it ; it is beſt cold, and will keep a month.
     Mackrel done the ſame way ; head and tail together folded in a paſty, eats fine.

Aſparagus dreſſed the Spaniſh way.

TAKE the aſparagus, break them in pieces, then boil them ſoft, and drain the water from them : take a little oil, water and vinegar, let it boi, ſeaſon it with pepper and ſalt, throw in the aſparagus, and thicken with yolks of eggs.
     Endive done this way, is good ; the Spaniards add ſugar, but that ſpoils them. Green peaſe done as above, are very good ; only add a lettuce cut ſmall, and two or three onions, and leave out the eggs.

Red cabbage dreſſed after the Dutch way, good for a cold in the breaſt.

TAKE the cabbage, cut it ſmall, and boil it ſoft, then drain it, and put it in a ſtew-pan, with a ſufficient quantity of oil and butter, a little water and vinegar, and an onion cut ſmall ; ſeaſon it with pepper and ſalt, and let it ſimmer on a ſlow fire, till all the liquor is waſted.

Cauliflowers dreſſed the Spaniſh way.

BOIL them, but not too much ; then drain them, and put them into a ſtew-pan ; to a large cauliflower put a quarter of a pint of ſweet oil, and two or three cloves of garlick ; let them fry till brown ; then ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt, two or three ſpoonfuls of vinegar ; cover the pan very cloſe, and let them ſimmer over a very ſlow fire an hour.

Carrots and French beans dreſſed the Dutch way.

SLICE the carrots very thin, and juſt cover them with water ; ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt, cut a good many onions and parſley ſmall, a piece of butter ; let them ſimmer over a very ſlow fire till done. Do French beans the ſame way.

Beans dreſſed the German way.

TAKE a large bunch of onions, peel and ſlice them, a great quantity of parſley waſhed and cut ſmall, throw them into a ſtew-pan, with a pound of butter ; ſeaſon them well with pepper and ſalt, put in two quarts of beans ; cover them cloſe, and let them do till the beans are brown, ſhaking the pan often. Do peaſe the ſame way.

Artichoke ſuckers dreſſed the Spaniſhway.

CLEAN and waſh them, and cut them in half ; then boil them in water, drain them from the water, and put them into a ſtew-pan, with a little oil, a little water, and a little vinegar ; ſeaſon them with pepper and ſalt ; ſtew them a little while, and then thicken them with yolks of eggs.
     They make a pretty garniſh done thus ; clean them and half boil them ; then dry them, flour them, and dip them in yolks of eggs, and fry them brown.

To dry pears without ſugar.

TAKE the Norwich pears, pare them with a knife, and put them in an earthen pot, and bake them not too ſoft ; put them into a white plate pan, and put dry ſtraw under them, and lay them in an oven after bread is drawn, and every day warm the oven to the degree of heat as when the bread is newly drawn. Within one week they muſt be dry.

To dry lettuce-ſtalks, artichoke-ſtalks, or cabbage-ſtalks.

TAKE the ſtalks, peel them to the pith, and put the pith in a ſtrong brine three or four days ; then take them out of the brine, boil them in fair water very tender, then dry them with a loth, and put them into as much clarified ſugar as will cover them, and ſo preſerve them as you do oranges ; then take them and ſet them to drain ; then take freſh ſugar, and boil it to the jeight ; take them out and dry them.

Artichokes preſerved the Spaniſh way.

TAKE the largeſt you can get, cut the tops of the leaves off, waſh them well and drain them ; to every artichoke pour in a large ſpoonful of oil ; ſeaſoned with pepper and ſalt. Send them to the oven, and bake them, they will keep a year.
     N. B. The Italians, French, Portugueſe, and Spaniards, have variety of ways of dreſſing of fiſh, which we have not, viz.
     As making fiſh-ſoops, ragos, pies, &c.
     For their ſoops, they uſe no gravy, nor in their ſauces, thinking it improper to mix fleſh and fiſh together ; but make their fiſh-ſoops with fiſh, viz. either of craw-fiſh, lobſters, &c. taking only the juice of them.

For EXAMPLE.

TAKE your craw-fiſh, tie them up in a muſlin rag, and boil them ; then preſs out their juice for the aboveſaid uſe.

For their pies.

THEY make ſome of carp ; others of different fiſh : and ſome they make like our minced pies, viz. They take a carp, and cur the fleſh from the bones, and mince it ; adding currants, &c.

Almond rice.

BLANCH the almonds, and pound them in a marble or wooden mortar ; and mix them in a little boiling water, preſs them as long as there is any milk in the almonds ; adding freſh water every time ; to every quart of almond juice, a quarter of a pound of rice, and two or three ſpoonfuls of orange-flower water ; mix them altogether, and ſimmer it over a very ſlow charcoal fire, keep ſtirring it often ; when done, ſweeten it to your palate ; put it into plates, and throw beaten cinnamon over it.

Sham chocolate.

TAKE a pint of milk, boil it over a ſlow fire, with ſome whole cinnamon, and ſweeten it with Liſbon ſugar, beat up the yolks of three eggs, throw all together into a chocolate pot, and mill it one way, or it will turn. Serve it up in chocolate cups.

Marmalade of eggs the Jews way.

TAKE the yolks of twenty-flour eggs, beat them for an hour : clarify one pound of the beſt moiſt ſugar, four ſpoonfuls of orange-flower water, one ounce of blanched and pounded almonds ; ſtir all together over a very ſlow charcoal fire, keeping ſtirring it all the while one way, till it comes to a conſiſtence ; then put it into coffee-cups, and throw a little beaten cinnamon on the top of the cups.
     This marmalade, mixed with pounded almonds, with orange-peel, and citron, are made in cakes of all ſhapes, ſuch as birds, fiſh, and fruit.

A cake the Spaniſh way.

TAKE twelve eggs, three quarters of a pound of beſt moiſt ſugar, mill them in a chocolate-mill, till they are all of a ſlither ; then mix in one pound of flour, half a pound of pounded almonds, two ounces of candied orange-peel, two ounces of citron, four large ſpoonfuls of orange-water, half an ounce of cinnamon, and a glaſs of ſack. It is better when baked in a ſlow oven.

Another way.

TAKE one pound of flour, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pint of boiling milk, two or three ſpoonfuls of ale yeaſt, or a glass o French brandy ; beat all well together ; then ſet it before the fire in a pan, where there is room for it to riſe ; cover it cloſe with a cloth and flannel, that no air comes to it ; when you think it is raiſed ſufficiently, mix half a pound of the beſt moiſt ſugar, an ounce of cinnamon beat fine : four ſpoonfuls of orange-flower water, one ounce of candied orange-peel, one ounce of citron, mix all well together, and bake it.

To dry plumbs.

TAKE pear-plumbs, fair and clear coloured, weight them and ſlit them up the ſides ; put them into a broad pan, and fill it full of water, ſet them over a very ſlow fire ; take care teat the ſkin does not come off ; when they are tender take them up, and to every pound of plumbs put a pound of ſugar ; ſtrew a little on the bottom of a large ſilver baſon ; then lay your plumbs in, one by one, and ſtrew the remainder of your ſugar over them ; ſet them into your ſtove all night, with a good warm fire the next day ; beat them, and ſet them into your ſtove again, and let them ſtand two days more, turning them every day ; then take them out of the ſyrup, and lay them on on glaſs plates to dry.

To make ſugar of pearl.

TAKE damaſk roſe water half a pint, one pound of fine ſugar, half an ounce of prepared pearl beat to a powder, eight leaves of beaten gold ; boil them together according to art ; add the pearl and gold leaves when juſt done, then caſt them on a marble.

To make fruit wafers of codlings, plumbs, &c.

TAKE the pulp of any fruit rubb'd through a hair-ſieve, and to every three ounces of fruit take ſix ounces of ſugar finely ſifted. Dry the ſugar very well till it be very hot ; heat the pulp alſo till it be very hot ; then mix it and ſet over a ſlow charcoal fire, till it be almonſt a-boiling, then pour it in glaſſes or trenchers, and ſet it in a ſtove till you ſee ut wukk keave tge gkaſſes ; but before it begins to candy, turn them on papers in what form you pleaſe. You may colour them red with clove gilly-flowers ſteeped in the juice of lemon.

To make white wafers.

BEAT the yolk of an egg and mix it with a quarter of a pint of fair water ; then mix half a pound of beſt flour, and thin it with damaſk roſe-water till you think it of a proper thickneſs to bake. Sweeten it to your palate with fine ſugar finely ſifted.

To make brown wafers.

TAKE a quart of ordinary cream, then take the yolks of three or four eggs, and as much fine flour as will make it into a thin batter ; ſweeten it with three quarters of a pound of fine ſugar finely ſierced, and as much pounded cinnamon as will make it taſte. Do not mix them till the cream be cold ; butter your pans, and make them very hot before you bake them.

How to dry peaches.

TAKE the faireſt and ripeſt peaches, pare them into fair water ; take their weight in double-refined ſugar, of one half make a very thin ſyrup ; then put in your peaches, boiling them till they look clear, then ſplit and ſtone them. Boil them till they are very tender, lay them a-draining, take the other half of the ſugar, and boil it almonſt to a candy ; then put in your peaches, and let them lie all night, then lay them on a glaſs, and ſet them in a ſtove till they are dry. If they are ſugar'd too much, wipe them with a wet cloth a little : let the firſt ſyrup be very thin, a quart of water to a pound of ſugar.

How to make almond knots.

TAKE two pounds of almonds, and blanch them in hot water ; beat them in a mortar, to a very fine paſte, with roſe-water ; to what you can to keep them from oiling. Take a pound of double-refined ſugar, ſifted through a lawn ſieve, leave out ſome to make up your knots, put the reſt into a pan upon the fire, till it is ſcalding hot, and at the ſame time have your almonds ſcalding hot in another pan ; then mix them together with the whites of three eggs beaten to froth, and let it ſtand till it is cold, then roll it with ſome of the ſugar you left out, and lay them in platters of paper. They will not roll into any ſhape, but lay them as well as you can, and bake them in a cool oven ; it muſt not be hot, neither muſt they be coloured.

To preſerve apricots.

TAKE your apricots and pare them, then ſtone what you can, whole ; then give them a light boiling in a pint of water, or according to your quantity of fruit ; then take the weight of your apricots in ſugar, and take the liquor which you boil them in and your ſugar, and boil it till it comes to ſyrup, and tive them a light boiling, taking off the ſcum as it riſes. Wehn the ſyrup jellies, it is enough ; then take up the apricots, and cover them with the jelly, and put cut paper over them, and lay them down when cold.

How to make almond milk for a waſh.

TAKE five ounces of bitter almonds, blanch them and beat them in a marble mortar very fine. You may put in a ſpoonful of ſack when you beat them ; then take the whites of three new-laid eggs, three pints of ſpring-water, and one pint of ſack. Mix them all very well together ; then ſtrain it through a fine cloth, and put it into a bottle, and keep it for uſe. You may put in lemon, or powder of pearl, when you make uſe of it.

How to make gooſeberry wafers.

TAKE gooſeberries beffore they are ready for preſerving ; cut off the black heads, and boil them with as much water as will cover them, all to maſh ; then paſh the liquor and all, as it will run, through a hair-ſieve, and put ſome pulp thro' with a ſpoon, but not too near. It is to be pulp'd neither too thick nor too thin ; meaſure it, and to a gill of it take half a pound of double-refined ſugar ; dry it, put it to your pulp, and let it ſcald on a ſlow fire, not to boil at all. Stir it very well, and then will riſe on a ſlow fire, not to boil at all. Stir it very well, and then will riſe a frothy white ſcum, which take clear off as it riſes ; you muſt ſcald and ſkim it till no ſcum riſes, and it comes clean from the pan ſide ; then take it off, and let it cool a litte. Have ready ſheets of glaſs very ſmooth, about the thickneſs of parchment, which is not very thick. You muſt ſpread it on the glaſſes with a knife, very thin, even, and ſmooth ; then ſet it on the ſtove with a ſlow fire : if you do it in the morning, at night you muſt cut it into long pieces with a broad caſe-knife, and put your knife clear under it, and fold it two or three times over, and lay them in a ſtove, turning them ſometimes till they are pretty dry ; but do not keep them too long, for they will loſe their colour. If they do not come clean off your glaſſes at night, keep them till next morning.

How to make thin apricot chips.

TAKE your apricots or peaches, pare them and cut them very thin in chips, and take three quarters of their weight in ſugar, it being finely ſierced ; then put the ſugar and the apricots into a pewter diſh, and ſet them upon coals ; and when the ſugar is all diſſolved, thurn them upon the edge of the diſh out of the ſyrup, and ſo ſet them by. Keep them turning till they have drank up the ſyrup ; be ſugre they never biol. They muſt be warmed in the ſyrup once every day, and ſo laid out upon the edge of the diſh till the ſyrup be drank.

How to make little French biſcuits.

TAKE nine new-laid eggs, take the yolks of two out, and take out the treddles, beat them a quarter of an hour, and put in a pound of ſierced ſugar, and beat them together tree quarters of an hour, then put in three quarters of a pound of flour, very fine and well dried. When it is cold, mix all well together, and beat them about haf a quarter of an hour, firſt and laſt. If you pleaſe put in a little orange-flower water, and a little grated lemon-peel ; then drop them about the bigneſs of a half crown, (but rather long than round) upon doubled paper a little buttered, ſierce ſome ſugar on them, and bake them in an oven, after manchet.

How to preſerve pippins in jelly.

TAKE pippins, pare, core, and quarter them ; throw them into fair water, and boil them till the ſtrength of the pippins be boiled out, then ſtrain them through a jelly bag, and to a pound of pippins take two pounds of double-refined ſugar, and a pint of this pippin liquor, and a quart of ſpring-water ; then pare teh pippins very neatly, cut them into halves ſlightly cored, throw then into fair water. When your ſugar is melted, and your ſyrup boiled a little, and clean-ſkimmed, dry your pippins with a clean cloth, throw them into your ſyrup ; take them off the fire a little, and then ſet them on again, let them boil as faſt as you poſſibly can, having a clear fire under them, till they jelly ; you muſt take them off ſometimes and ſhake them, but ſtir them not with a ſpoon ; a little before you take them off the fire, ſqueeze the juice of a lemon and orange into them, which muſt be firſt paſſed a tiffany ; give them a boil or two after, ſo take them up, elſe they will turn red. At the firſt puttin of your ſugar in, allow a little more for this juice ; you may boil orange or lemon peel very tender in ſpring-water, and cut them in long thin pieces, and boil them in a little ſugar and water, and put them in the bottom of your glaſſes ; turn your pippins often, even in the boiling.

How to make blackberry wine.

TAKE your berries when full ripe, put then into a large veſſel of wood or ſtone, with a ſpicket in it, and pour upon them as much boiling water as will juſt appear at the top of them : as ſoon as you can endure your hand in them, bruiſe them very well, till all the berries are broke ; then let them ſtand cloſe covered till all the berries be broke ; then let then ſtand cloſe covered till the berries be well wrough up to the top, which uſually is three or four days ; then draw off the clear juice into another veſſel ; and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one pound of ſugar, ſtir it well in, and let it ſtand to work in another veſſel like the firſt, a week or ten days ; then draw it off at the ſpicket throug a jelly-bag, into a large veſſel ; take four ounces of iſinglaſs, lay it in ſteep twelve hours in a pint of white wine : the next morning boil it till it be all diſſolved, upon a ſlow fire ; then take a gallon of your blackberry juice, put in the diſſolved iſinglaſs, give it a boil together, and put it in hot.

The beſt way to make raiſin wine.

TAKE a clean wine or brandy hogſhead ; take care it is very ſweet and clean, put in two hundred of raiſins, ſtalks and all, and then fill the veſſel with fine clear ſpring-water : let it ſtand till you think it has done hiſſing ; then throw in two quarts of fine French brandy ; put in the bung ſlightly, and in about three weeks or a month, if you are ſure it has done fretting, ſtop it down cloſe : let it ſtand ſix months, peg it near the top, and if you find it is very fine and good, fit for drinking, bottle it off, or elſe ſtop it up again, and let it ſtand ſix months longer. It ſhould ſtand ſix months in the bottle : this is by much the beſt way of making it, as I have ſeen by experience, as the wine will be much ſtronger, but leſs of it : the different ſorts of raiſins make quite a different wine ; and after you have drawn off all the wine, throw on ten gallons of ſpring-water ; take off the head of the barrel, and ſtir it well twice a day, preſſing the raiſins as well as you can ; let it ſtand a fortnight or three weeks, then draw it off into a proper veſſel to hold it, and ſqueeze the raiſins well ; add two quarts of brandy, and two quarts of ſyrup of elderberries, ſtop it cloſe when it has done working ; and in about three months it will be fit for drinking. If you don't chuſe to make this ſecond wine, fill your hogſhead with ſpring-water, and ſet it in the ſun for three or four months, and it will make excellent vinegar.

How to preſerve white quinces whole.

TAKE the weight of your quinces in ſugar, and put a pint of water to a pound of ſugar, make it into a ſyrup, and clarify it ; then core your quince and pare it, and put it into your ſyrup, and let it boil till it be clear ; then put in three ſpoonfuls of jelly, which muſt be made thus : over night, lay your quince-kernels in water, then ſtrain them, and put them into your quinces, and let them have but one boil afterward.


How to make orange wafers.

TAKE the beſt oranges, and boil them in three or fur waters, till they are tender, then take out the kernels and the juice, and beat them to pulp, in a clean marble mortar, and rub them through a hair-ſieve ; to a pound of this pulp take a pound and a half of double-refined ſugar, beaten and ſierced ; take half of your ſugar, and put it into your oranges, and boil it till it ropes ; then take it from the fire, and when it is cold ,make it up in paſte with the other half of your ſugar ; make but a little at a time, for it will dry too faſt ; then with a little rolling-pin roll them out as thin as a tiffany upon papers ; cut them round with a little drinking glaſs, and let them dry, and they wil look very clear.

How to make oragne cakes.

TAKE the peels of four oranges, being firſt pared, and the meat taken out, boil them tender, and beat them ſmall in a marble mortar ; then take the meat of them, and two more oranges, your ſeeds and ſkins being picked out, and mix it with the peelings that are beaten ; ſet them on the fire, with a ſpoonful or two of orange-flower water, keeping it ſtirring till that moiſture be pretty well dried up ; then have ready to every pound of that pulp, four pounds and a quarter of double-refined ſugar, finely ſierced : make your ſugar very hot, and dry it upon the fire, and them mix it and the pulp together, and ſet it on the fire again, till the ſugar be very well melted, but be ſure it does not boil ; you may put in a little peel, ſmall ſhred or grated, and when it is cold, draw it up in double papers ; dry them before the fire, and when you turn them, put two together ; or you may keep them in deep glaſſes or pots, and dry them as you have occaſion.

How to make white cakes like china diſhes.

TAKE the yolks of two eggs, and two ſpoonfuls of ſack, and as much roſe-water, ſome carraway ſeeds, and as much flour as will make it a paſte ſtiff enough to roll very thin : if you would have them like diſhes, you muſt bake them upon diſhes buttered. Cut them out into what work your pleaſe to candy them ; take a pound of fine ſierced ſugar perfumed, and the white of an egg, and three or four ſpoonfuls of roſe-water, ſtir it till it looks white ; and when that paſte is cold, do it with a feather on the ſide. This candied, let it dry, and do the other ſide ſo. and dry it alſo.

To make a lemoned honey-comb.

TAKE the juice of one lemon, and ſweeten it with fine ſugar to your palate ; then take a pint of cream, and the white of an egg, and put in ſome ſugar, and beat it up ; and as the froth riſes, take it off, and put it on the juice of the lemon, till you have taken all the cream off upon the lemon : make it the day before you want it, in a diſh that is proper.

How to dry cherries.

TAKE eight pounds of cherries, one pound of the beſt powdered ſugar, ſtone the cherries over a great deep baſon or glaſs, and lay them one by one in rows, and ſtrew a little ſugar : thus do till your baſon is full to the top, and let them ſtand till the next day ; then pour them out into a great poſnip, ſet them on the fire ; let them boil very faſt a quarter of an hour, or more ; then pour them again into your baſon, and let them ſtand two or three days ; then take them out, and lay them one by one on hair-ſieves, and ſet them in the ſun, or an oven, till they are dry, turning them every day upon dry ſieves : if in the oven it muſt be as little warm as you can juſt feel it, when you hold your hand in it.

How to make fine almond cakes.

TAKE a pound of Jordan almonds, blanch them, beat them very fine with a pound of orange flower water, to keep them from oiling ; then take a pound and a quarter of fine ſugar, boil it to a light candy height : then put in your almonds ; then take two freſh lemons, grate off the rind very thin, and put as much juice as to make it of a quick taſte ; then put it into your glaſſes, and ſet it into your ſtove, ſtirring them often, that they do not candy : ſo when it is a little dry, put it into little cakes upon ſheets of glaſs to dry.

How to make Uxbridge-cakes.

TAKE a pound of wheat flour, ſeven pounds of currants, half a nutmeg, four pounds of butter, rub your butter cold very well amongſt the veal, dreſs your currants very well in the flour, butter, and ſeaſoning, and knead it with ſo much good new yeaſt as will make it into a pretty high paſte : uſually two pennyworth of yeaſt to that quantity ; after it is kneaded well together, let it ſtand an hour to riſe ; you may put half a pound of paſte in a cake.

How to make mead.

TAKE ten gallons of water, and two gallons of honey, a handful of raced ginger ; then take two lemons, cut them in pieces, and put them into it, boil it very well, keep it ſkimming ; let it ſtand all night in the ſame veſſel you boil it in, the next morning barrel it up, with two or three ſpoonfuls of good yeaſt. About three weeks or a month after, you may bottle it.

Marmalade of cherries.

TAKE five pounds of cherries, ſtoned, and two pounds of hard ſugar, ſhred your cherries, wet your ſugar with the juice that runneth from then ; then put the cherries into the ſugar, and boil them pretty faſt till it be a marmalade ; when it is cold, put it up in glaſſes for uſe.

To dry damoſins.

TAKE four pounds of damoſins ; take one pound of fine ſugar, make a ſyrup of it, with about a pint of fair water ; then put in your damoſins, ſtir it into your hot ſyrup, ſo let them ſtand on a little fire, to keep them warm for half an hour ; then put all into a baſon, and cover them, let them ſtand till the next day; then put the ſyrup from them, and ſet it on the fire, and when it is very hot, put it on your damoſins : this do twice a day for three days together ; then draw the ſyrup from the damoſins, and lay them in an earthen diſh, and ſet them in an oven after bread is drawn ; when the oven is cold, take them and turn them, and lay them upon clean diſhes ; ſet them in the ſun, or in another oven, till they are dry.

Marmalade of quince white.

TAKE the quinces, pare hem and core them, put them into water as you pare them, to be kept from blacking, then boil them ſo tender that a quarter of ſtraw will go through them ; then take their weight of ſugar, and beat them, break the quinces with the back of a ſpoon ; and then put in the ſugar, and let them boil faſt uncovered, till they ſlide from the bottom of the pan : you may make paſte of the ſame, only dry it in a ſtove, drawing it out into what form your pleaſe.

To preſerve apricots or plumbs green.

TAKE your plumbs before they have ſtones in them, which you may know by putting a pin through them ; then coddle them in many waters, till they are as green as graſs : peel them and coddle again ; you muſt take the weight of them in ſugar, and make ſyrup ; put to your ſugar a jack of water : then put them in, ſet them on the fire to boil ſlowly, till they be clear, ſkimming them often, and they will be very green. Put them up in glaſſes, and keep them for uſe.

To preſerve cherries.

Take two pounds of cherries, one pound and a half of ſugar, half a pint of fair water, melt your ſugar in it ; when it is melted, put in your other ſugar and your cherries ; then boil them ſoftly, till all the ſugar be melted ; then boil them faſt, and ſkim them ; take them off two or three times and ſhake them, and put them on again, and let them boil faſt ; and when they are of a good colour, and the ſyrup will ſtand, they are enough.

To preſerve barberries.

TAKE the ripeſt and beſt barberries you can find : take the weight of them in ſugar ; then pick out the ſeeds and tops, wet your ſugar with the juice of them, and make a ſyrup ; then put in your barberries, and when they boil, take them off and ſhake them, and ſet them on again, and let them boil, and repeat the ſame, till they are clean enough to put into glaſſes.

Wiggs.

TAKE three pounds of well-dried flour, one nutmeg, a little mace and ſalt, and almoſt half a pound of carraway comfits ; mix theſe well together, and melt half a pound of butter in a pint of ſweet thick cream, ſix ſpoonfuls of good ſack, four yolks and three whites of eggs, and near a pint of good light yeaſt ; work theſe well together, and cover it, and ſet it down to the fire to riſe : then let them reſt, and lay the remainder, the half pound of carraways on the top of the wiggs, and put them upon papers well floured and dried, and let them have as quick an oven as for tarts.

To make fruit wafers ; codlings or plumbs do beſt.

TAKE the pulp of fruit, rubbed through a hair-ſieve, and to three ounces of pulp take ſix ounces of ſugar, finely ſierced ; dry your ſugar very well, till it be very hot, heat the pulp alſo very hot, and put it to your ſugar, and heat it on the fire, till it be almoſt at boiling ; then pour it on the glaſſes or trenchers, and ſet it on the ſtove, till you ſee it will leave the glaſſes, (but before it begins to candy) take them off, and turn them upon papers in what form you pleaſe ; you may colour them red with clove gilliflowers ſteeped in the juice of lemon.

How to make marmalade of oranges.

TAKE the oranges and weigh them ; to a pound of oranges rake half a pound of pippins, and almoſt half a pint of water ; a pound and a hlaf of ſugar ; pare your oranges very thin, and ſave the peelings, then take off the ſkins, and boil them till they are very tender, and the bitterneſs is gone out of them. In the mean time pare your pippins, and ſlice them into water, and boil them till they are clear, pick out the meat from the ſkins of your oranges, before you boil them ; and add to that meat the meat of one lemon ; then take the peels you have boiled tender, and ſhred them, or cut them into very thick ſlices, what length you plaeſe ; then ſet the ſugar on the fire, with ſeven or eight ſpoonfuls of water, ſkim it clean, then put in the peel, and the meat of the oranges and lemons, and the pippins, and ſo boil them ; put in as much of the outward rind of the oranges as you think fit, and ſo boil them till they are enough.

Cracknels.

TAKE half a pound of the whiteſt flour, and a pound of ſugar beaten ſmall, two ounces of butter cold, one ſpoonful of carraway-ſeeds, ſteeped all night in vinegar ; then put in three yolks of eggs, and a little roſe-water, work your paſte altogether ; and after that beat it with a rolling-pin, till it be light ; then roll it out thin, and cut it with a glaſs, lat it thin on plates buttered, and prick them with a pin ; then take the yolks of two eggs, beaten with roſe-water, and rub them over with it ; then ſet tem into a pretty quick oven, and when they are brown take them out and lay them in a dry place.

To make orange loaves.

TAKE your orange, and cut a round hole in the top, take out all them eat, and as much of the white as you can without breaking the ſkin : then boil them in water till tender, ſhifting the water till it is not bitter ; then take them up and wipe them dry : then take a pound of fine ſugar, a quart of water, or in proportion to the oranges ; boil it, and take off the ſcum as it riſeth : then put in your oranges, and let them boil a little, and let them lie a day or two in the ſyrup ; then take the yolks of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream (or more), beat them well together ; then grate in two Naples biſcuits, (or white bread) a quarter of a pound of butter, and four ſpoonfuls of ſack ; mix it all together till your butter is melted ; then fill the oranges with it, and bake them in a ſlow oven as long as you would a cuſtard, then ſtick-in ſome cut citron, and fill them up with ſack, butter, and ſugar grated over.

To make a lemon tower or pudding.

GRATE the outward rind of three lemons; take three quarters of a pound of ſugar, and the ſame of butter, the yolks of eight eggs, beat them in a marble mortar, at leaſt an hour ; then lay a thin rich cruſt in the bottom of the diſh you bake it in, as you may ſomething alſo over it : three quarters of an hour will bake it. Make an orange-pudding the ſame way, but pare the rinds and boil them firſt in ſeveral waters, till the bitterneſs is boiled out.

How to make the clear lemon cream.

TAKE a gill of clear water, infuſe in it the rind of a lemon, till it taſtes of it ; then take the whites of ſix eggs, the juice of four lemons ; beat them all well together, and run them through a hair ſieve, ſweeten them with double-refined ſugar, and ſet them on the fire, not too hot, keeping ſtirring ; and when it is thick enough, take it off.

How to make chocolate.

TAKE ſix pounds of cocoa-nuts, one pound of aniſeeds, four ounces of long pepper, one of cinnamon, a quarter of a pound of almonds, one pound of piſtachios, as much achiote as will make it the colour of a brick ; three grains of muſk, and as much ambergreaſe, ſix pounds of ſugar, one ounce of nutmegs, dry and beat them, and ſierce them through a fine ſieve : your almonds muſt be beat to a paſte, and mixed with the other ingredients ; then dip your ſugar in orange-flower or roſe-water, and put it in a ſkillet, on a very gentle charcoal-fire ; then put in the ſpice, and ſtrew it well together ; then the muſk and ambergreaſe ; then put in the cocoa-nuts laſt of all ; then achiote, wetting it with the water the ſugar was dipt in ; ſtew all theſe very well together over a hotter fire than before ; then take it up, and put it into boxes, or what form you like, and ſet it to dry in a warm plate. The piſtachios and almonds muſt be little beat in a mortar, then ground upon a ſtone.

Another way to make chocolate.

TAHE ſix pounds of the beſt Spanish nuts, when parched, and cleaned from the hulls ; take take three pounds of ſugar, two ounces of the beſt cinnamon, beaten and ſifted very fine ; to every pound of nuts put in three good vaelas, or more or leſs as you pleaſe ; to every pound of nuts half a dram of cardamum ſeeds, very finely beaten and ſierced.

Cheeſecakes without currants.

TAKE two quarts of new milk, ſet it as it comes from the cow, with as little runnet as you can ; when it is come, break it as gently as you can, and whey it well ; then paſs it through a hair-ſieve, and put it into a marble morter, and beat it into a pound of new butter, waſhed in roſe-water ; when that is well mingled in the curd, take the yolks of ſix eggs, and the whites of three, beat them very well with a little thick cream and ſalt ; and after you have made the coffins, juſt as you put them into the cruſt (which muſt not be till you are ready to ſet them into the oven) then put in your eggs and ſugar, and a whole nutmeg finely grated ; ſtir them all well together, and ſo fill your cruſts ; and if you put a little fine ſugar ſierced into the cruſt, it will roll the thinner and cleaner ; three ſpoonfuls of thick ſweet cream will be enough to beat up your eggs with.

How to preserve white pear plumbs.

TAKE the fineſt and cleareſt from ſpeck you can get ; to a pound of plumbs take a pound and a quarter of ſugar, the fineſt you can get, a pint and a quarter of water ; ſlit the plumbs and ſtone them, and prick them full of holes, ſaving ſome ſugar beat fine laid in a baſon ; as you do them, lay them in, and ſtrew ſugar over them ; when you have thus done, have half a pound of ſugar, and your water ready made into a thin ſyrup, and a little cold ; put in your plumbs with the ſlit ſide downwards, ſet them on the fire, keep them continually boiling, neither too ſlow nor too faſt ; take them often off, ſhake them round, and ſkin them well, keep them down into the ſyrup continually, for fear they loſe their colour ; when they are thoroughly ſcalded, ſtrew on the reſt of your ſugar, and keep doing ſo till they are enough, which you may know by their glaſing towards the latter end ; boil them up quickly.

To preſerve currants.

TAKE the weight of the currants in ſugar, prick out the xcseeds; take to a pound of ſugar half a jack of water, let it melt, then put in your berries and let them do very leiſurely, ſkim them, and take them up, let the ſyrup boil, then put them on again, and when they are clear, and the ſyrup thick enough, take them off, and when they are cold put them up in glaſſes.

To preſerve raſpberries.

TAKE of the raſpberries that are not too prpe, and take the weight of them in ſugar, wet your ſugar with a little water, and put in your berries, and let them boil ſoftly, take heed of breaking them ; when they are clear, take them up, and boil the ſyrup till it be thick enough, then put them in again, and when they are cold put them up in glaſſes.

To make biſcuit bread.

TAKE half a pound of very fine wheat flour, and as much ſugar finely ſierced, and dry them very well before the fire, dry the flour more than the ſugar ; then take four new laid eggs, take out the ſtrains, then ſwing them very well, then put the ſugar in, and ſwing it well with the eggs, then put the flour in it, and beat all together half an hour at the leaſt ; put in ſome anniſeeds, or carraway ſeeds, and rub the plates with butter, and ſet them into the oven.

To candy angelica.

TAKE it in April, boil it in water till it be tender ; then take it up and drain it from the water very well, then ſcrape the outſide of it, and dry it in a clean cloth, and lay it in the ſyrup, and let it lie in three or four days, and cover it cloſe : the ſyrup muſt be ſtrong of ſugar, and keep it hot a good while, and let it not boil ; after it is heated a good while, lay it upon a pye-plate, and ſo let it dry, keep it near to the fire leſt it diſſolve.

To preſerve cherries.

TAKE their weight in ſugar before you ſtone them ; when ſtoned, make your ſyrup, then put in your cherries, let them boil ſlowly at the firſt, till they be thoroughly warmed, then boil them as faſt as you can ; when they are boiled clear, put in the jelly, with almoſt the weight of ſugar ; ſtrew the ſugar on the cherries, for the colouring you muſt be ruled by your eye ; to a pound of ſugar put a jack of water, ſtrew your ſugar on them before they boil, and put in the juice of currants ſoon after they boil.

To dry pear plumbs.

TAKE two pounds of pear plumbs to one pound of ſugar ; ſtone them, and fill them every one with ſugar ; lay them in an earthen pot, put to them as much water as will prevent burning them ; then ſet them in an oven after bread is drawn, let them ſtand till they be tender, then put them into a ſieve to drain well from the ſyrup, then ſet them in an oven again until they be a little dry ; then ſmooth the ſkins as well as you can, and ſo fill them, then ſet them in the oven again to harden ; then waſh them in water ſcalding hot, and dry them very well, then put them in the oven again very cool to blue them, put them between two pewter diſhes, and ſet them in the oven.

A filling for the aforeſaid plumbs.

TAKE the plumbs, wipe them, prick them in the ſeams, put them in a pitcher, and ſet them in a little boiling water, let them boil very tender, then pour moſt of the liquor from them, then take off the ſkins and the ſtones ; to a pint of the pulp a pound of ſugar well dried in the oven ; then let it boil till the ſcum riſe, which take off very clean, and put into earthen plates, and dry it in an oven, and ſo fill the plumbs.

To cand caſſia.

TAKE as much of the powder of brown caſſia as will lie upon two broad ſhillings, with what muſk and ambergreaſe you think fitting : the caſſia and perfume muſt be powdered together ; then take a quarter of a pound of ſugar, and boil it to a candy height ; then put in your powder, and mix it well together, and pour it in pewter ſaucers or plates, which muſt be buttered very thin, and when it is cold it will ſlip out : the caſſia is to be bought at London, ſometimes it is in powder, and ſometimes in a hard lump.

To make carraway cakes.

TAKE two pounds of white flour, and two pounds of coarſe loaf ſugar well dried, and fine ſifted ; after the flour and ſugar is ſifted and weighed, then mingle them together, ſift the flour and ſugar together, throw a hair-ſieve into the bowl you uſe it in ; to them you muſt have two pounds of good butter, eighteen eggs, leaving out eight of the whites ; to theſe you muſt have four ounces of candied orange, five or ſix ounces of carraway comfits : you muſt firſt work the butter with roſe-water, till you can ſee none of the water, and your butter muſt be very ſoft ; then put in flour and ſugar, a little at a time, and likewiſe your eggs ; but you muſt beat your eggs very well, with ten ſpoonfuls of ſack , ſo you muſt put in each as you think fit, keeping it conſtantly beating with your hand, till you have put it into the hoop for the oven ; do not put in your ſweetmeats and ſeeds, till you are ready to put into your hoops : you muſt have three or four doubles of cap-paper under the cakes, and butter the paper and hoop : you muſt ſift ſome ſugar upon your cake, when it goes into the oven.

To preſerve pippins in ſlices.

WHEN your pippins are prepared, but not cored, cut them in ſlices, and take the weight of them in ſugar, put to your ſugar a pretty quantity of water, let it melt, and ſkim it, let it boil again very high ; then put them into the ſyrup when they are clear ; lay them in ſhallow glaſſes, in which you mean to ſerve them up ; then put into the ſyrup a candied orange-peel cut in little ſlices very thin, and lay about the pippin ; cover them with ſyrup, and keep them about the pippin.

Sack cream like butter.

TAKE a quart of cream, boil it with mace, put to it ſix egg-yolks well beatn, ſo let it boil up ; then take it off the fire, and put in a little ſack, and turn it ; then put in a cloth, and let the whey run from it ; then take it out of the cloth, and ſeaſon it with rose-water and ſugar, being very well broken with a ſpoon ; ſerve it up in the diſh, and pink it as you would do a diſh of butter, ſo ſend it in with cream and ſugar.

Barley cream.

TAKE a quart of French barley, boil it in three or four waters, till it be pretty tender ; then ſet a quart of cream on the fire with ſome mace and nutmeg ; when it begins to boil, drain out the barley from the water, put in the cream, and let it boil till it be pretty thick and tender ; then ſeason it with ſugar and ſalt. When it is cold ſerve it up.

Almond butter.

TAKE a quart of cream, put in ſome mace whole, and a quartered nutmeg, the yolks of eight eggs well beaten and three-quarters of a pound of almonds well blanched, and beaten extremely ſmall, with a little roſe-water and ſugar ; put all theſe together, ſet them on the fire, and ſtir them till they begin to boil ; then take it off, and you will find it a little cracked ; ſo lay a ſtrainer in a cullender, and pour it into it, and let it drain a day or two, till you ſee it is firm like butter ; then run it through a cullender, then it will be like little comfits, and ſo ſerve it up.

Sugar cakes.

TAKE a pound and a half of very fine flour, one pound of cold butter, half a pound of ſugar, work all theſe well together into a paſte, then roll it with the palms of your hands into balls, and cut them with a glaſs into cakes ; lay them in a ſheet of paper, with ſome flour under them ; to beat them ſmall, and lay them in the midſt of a long piece of paſte, and roll it round with your fingers, and caſt them into knots, in what faſhion you pleaſe ; prick them and bake them.

Sugar cakes another way.

TAKE half a pound of fine ſugar ſierced, and as much flour, two eggs beaten with a little roſe-water, a piece of butter about the bigneſs of an egg, work them well together till they be a ſmooth paſte ; then make them into cakes, working every one with the palms of your hands ; then lay them in plates, rubbed over with a little butter ; ſo bake them in an oven little more than warm. You may make knots of the ſame the cakes are made of, but in the mingling you muſt put in a few carraway ſeeds ; when they are wrought to paſte, roll them with the ends of your finger into ſmall rolls, and make it into knots ; lay them upon pye-plates rubbed with butter, and bake them.

Clouted cream.

TAKE a gill of new milk, and ſet it on the fire, and take ſis ſpoonfuls of roſe-water, four or five pieces of large mace, put the mace on a thread ; when it boils, put to them the yolks of two eggs very well beaten ; ſtir theſe very well together ; then take a quart of very good cream, put it to the reſt, and ſtir it together, but let it not boil after the cream is in. Pour it out of the pan you boil it in, and let it ſtand all night ; the next day take the top off it, and ſerve it up.

Quince cream.

TAKE your quinces, and put them in boiling water unpared, boil them apace uncovered, leſt they diſcolour when they are boiled, pare them, beat them very tender with ſugar ; then take cream, and mix it till it be pretty thick : if you boil your cream with a little cinnamon, it will be better, but let it be cold before you put it to your quince.

Citron cream.

TAKE a quart of cream, and boil it with tree pennyworth of good clear iſinglaſs, which muſt be tied up in a piece of thin tiffany ; put in a blade or tow of mace ſtrongly boiled in your cream and iſinglaſs, till the cream be pretty thick ; ſweeten it to your taſte, with perfumed hard ſugar ; when it is taken off the fire, put in a little roſe-water to your taſte ; then take a piece of your green freſheſt citron, and cut it into little bits, the breadth of point-dales, and about half as long ; and the cream being firſt put into diſhes, when it is half cold, put in your citron, ſo as it may but ſink from the top, that it may not be ſeen, and may lie before it be at the bottom ; if you waſh your citron before in roſe-water, it will make the colour better and freſher ; ſo let it ſtand till the next day, where it may get no water, and where it may not be ſhaken.

Cream of apples, quince, gooſeberries, prunes, or raſpberries.

TAKE to every quart of cream four eggs, being firſt well beat and ſtrained, and mix them with a little cold cream, and put it to your cream, being firſt boiled with whole mace ; keep it ſtirring, till you find it begin to thicken at the bottom and ſides ; your apples, quinces, and berries muſt be tenderly boiled, ſo as they will cruſh in the pulp ; then ſeaſon it with roſe-water and ſugar to your taſte, putting it up into diſhes ; and when they are cold, if there be any roſe-water and ſugar, which lies wateriſh at the top, let it be drained out with a ſpoon : this pulp muſt be made ready before you boil your cream ; and when it is boiled, cover over your pulp a pretty thickneſs with your egg cream, which muſt have a little roſe-water and ſugar put to it.

Sugar loaf cream.

TAKE a quarter of a pound of hartſhorn, and put it to a potle of water, and ſet on the fire in a pipkin, covered till it be ready to ſeeth ; then pour off the water, and put a pottle of water more to it, and let it ſtand ſimmering on the fire till it be conſumed to a pin, and with it two ounces of iſinglaſs waſhed in roſe-water, which muſt be put in with the ſecond water ; then ſtrain it, and let it cool ; then take three pints of cream, and boil it very well with a bag of nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, and mace ; then take a quarter of a pound of Jordan almonds, and lay them one night in cold water to blanch ; and when they are blanched, let them lie two hours in cold water ; then take them forth, and dry them in a clean linen cloth, and beat them in a marble mortar, with fair water or roſe-water, beat them to a very fine pulp, then take ſome of the aforesaid cream well warmed, and put the pulp by degrees into it, ſtraining it through a cloth with the back of a ſpoon, till all the goodneſs of the almonds be ſtrained out into the cream ; then ſeaſon the cream with roſe-water and ſugar ; then take the aforesaid jelly, warm it till it diſſolves, and ſeason it with roſe-water and ſugar, and a grain of ambergreaſe or muſk, if you pleaſe ; then mix your cream and jelly together very well, and put it into glaſſes well warmed (like ſugar-loaves) and let it ſtand all night ; then put them forth upon a plate or two, or a white china diſh, and ſtick the cream with piony kernels, or ſerve them in glaſſes, one on every trencher.

Conſerve of roſes boiled.

TAKE red roſes, take off all the whites at the bottom, or elſewhere, take three times the weight of them in ſugar ; put to a pint of roſes a pint of water, ſkim it well, ſhred your roſes a little before you put them into water, cover them, and boil the leaves tender in water ; and when they are tender, put in your ſugar ; keep ſtirring, leſt they burn when they are tender, and the ſyrup be conſumed. Put them up, and ſo keep them for your uſe.

How to make orange biſcuits.

PARE your oranges, not very thick, put them into water, but firſt weigh your peels, let it ſtand over the fire, and let it boil till it be very tender ; then beat it in a marble mortar, till it be a very fine ſmooth paſte ; to every ounce of peels put two ounces and a half of double-refined ſugar well ſierced, mix them well together with a ſpoon in the mortar ; then ſpread it with a knife upon pye-plates, and ſet it in an oven a little warm, or before the fire ; when it feels dry upon the top, cut in into what faſhion you pleaſe, and turn them into another plate, and ſet them in the ſtove till they be dry ; where the edges look rough, when it is dry, they muſt be cut with a pair of ſciſſors.

How to make yellow Varniſh.

TAKE a quart of ſpirit of wine, and put to it eight ounces of ſeed-cake, ſhake it half an hour ; next day it will be fit for uſe, but ſtrain it firſt ; take lamp-black, and put in your varniſh about the thickneſs of a pancake ; mix it well, but ſtir it not too faſt ; then take ſome burnt ivory, and oil of turpentine as fine as butter ; then mix it with ſome of your varniſh, till you have varniſhed it fit for poliſhing ; then poliſh it with tripola in fine flour ; then lay it on the wood ſmooth, with one of the bruſhes ; then let it dry, and do it ſo eight times at the leaſt : when it is very dry lay on your varniſh that is mixed, and when it is dry, poliſh it with a wet cloth dipped in tripola, and rub it as hard as you would do platters.

How to make a pretty varniſh to colour little baſkets, bowls, or any board where nothing hot is ſet on.

TAKE either red, black or white wax, which colour you want to make : to every two ounces of ſealing-wax one ounce of ſpirit of wine, pound the wax fine, then ſift it through a fine lawn ſieve, till you have made it extremely fine : put it into a large phial with the ſpirits of wine, ſhake it often ; then with a little bruſh rub your baſkets all over with it : let it dry, and do it over a ſecond time, and it makes them look very pretty.

How to clean gold or ſilver lace.

TAKE alabaſter finely beaten and ſierced, and put it into an earthen pipkin, and ſet it upon a chaffing-diſh of coals, and let it boil for ſome time, ſtirring it often with a ſtick firſt ; when it begins to boil, it will be very heavy ; when it is enough, you will find it in the ſtirring very light ; then take it off the fire, lay your lace upon a piece of flannel, and ſtrew your powder upon it ; knock it well in with a hard cloth bruſh : when you think it is enough, bruſh the powder out with a clean bruſh.

How to make ſweet powder for cloaths.

TAKE orris roots two pounds and a half, of lignum rodicum ſix ounces, of ſcraped cypreſs roots three ounces, of damaſk roſes carefully dried a pound and a half, of Benjamin four ounces and a half, of ſtorax two ounces and a half, of ſweet-marjoram three ounces, of labdanum one ounce, and of dram of calamus aromaticus, and one dram of muſk cods, ſix drams of lavender and flowers, and mellilot flowers, if your pleaſe.

To clean white ſattins, flowered ſilks with gold nad ſilver in them.

TAKE ſtale bread crumbled very fine, mixed with powder blue, rub it very well over the ſilk or ſattin ; then ſhake it well, and with clean ſoft cloths duſt it well : if any gold or ſilver flowers, afterwards take a piece of crimſon in grain velvet, and rub the flowers with it.

To keep arms, iron, or ſteel from ruſting.

TAKE the filings of lead, or duſt of lead, finely beaten in an iron mortar, putting to it oil of ſpice, which will make the iron ſmell well : and if you oil your arms, or any thing that is made of iron or ſteel, you may keep them in moiſt airs from ruſting.

The Jews way to pickle beef, which will go good to the Weſt-Indes, and keep a year good in the pickle, and with care will go to the Eaſt-Indes.

TAKE any piece of beef without bones, or take the bones out, if you intend to keep it above a month ; take mace, cloves, nutmeg, and pepper, and juniper-berries beat fine, and rub the beef well, mixt ſalt and Jamaica pepper, and bay leaves ; let it be ſeaſoned, let it lay in this ſeaſoning a week or ten days, throw in a good dal of garlick and ſhalot ; boil ſome of the beſt wine vinegar, lay your meat in a pan or good veſſel for the purpoſe, with the pickle ; and when the vinegar is quite cold, pout it over, cover it cloſe. If it is for a voyage, cover it with oil, and let the cooper hop up the barrel very well : this is a good way in a hot country, where meat will not keep : then it muſt be put into the vinegar directly with the ſeaſoning ; then you may either roaſt or ſtew it, but it is beſt ſtewed, and add a good deal of onion and parſley chopped fine, ſome white wine, a little catchup, truffles and morels, a little good gravy, a piece of butter rolled in flour, or a little oil, in which the meat and onions ought to ſtew a quarter of an hour before the other ingredients are put in : then put all in and ſtir it together, and let it ſtew till you think it enough. This is a good pickle in a hot country, to keep beef or veal that is dreſſed, to eat cold.

How to make cyder.

AFTER all your apples are bruiſed, take half of your quantity and ſqueeze them, and the juice your preſs from them pour upon the others half bruiſed, but not ſqueezed, in a tub for the purpoſe, having a tap at the bottom ; let the juice remain upon the apples three or four days, then pull out your tap, and let your juice run into ſome other veſſel ſet under the tup to receive it ; and if it runs thick, as at the firſt it will, pour it upon the apples again, till you ſee it run clear ; and as you have a quantity, put it into your veſſel, but do not force the cyder, but let it drop as long as it will of its own accord : having done this, after you perceive that the ſides begin to work, take a quantity of iſinglaſs, an ounce will ſerve forty gallons, infuſe this into ſome of the cyder till it be diſſolved ; put to an ounce o iſinglaſs a quart of cyder, and when it is ſo diſſolved, pour it into the veſſel, and ſtop it cloſe for two days, or ſomething more ; then draw off the cyder into another veſſel : this do ſo often till you perceive your cyder to be free from all manner of ſediment, that may make it ferment and fret itſelf : after Chriſtmas you may boil it. You may, by pouring water on the apples, and preſſing them, make a pretty ſmall cyder : if it be thick and muddy, by uſing iſinglaſs you may make it as clear as the reſt ; you muſt diſſolve the iſinglaſs over the fire, till it be jelly.

For fining cyder.

TAKE two quarts of ſkim-milk, four ounces of iſinglaſs, cut the iſinglaſs in pieces, and work it luke-warm in the milk over the fire ; and when it is diſſolved, then put it in cold into the hogſhead of cyder, and take a long ſtick, and ſtir it well from top to bottom, for half a quarter of an hour.

After it has fined.

TAKE ten pounds of raiſinſ of the ſun, two ounces of turmerick, half an ounce of ginger beaten ; then take a quantity of raiſins, and grind them as you do muſtard ſeed in a bowl, with a little cyder, and ſo the reſt of the raiſins : then ſprinkle the turmerick and ginger amongſt it : then put all into a fine canvaſs bag, and hang it in the middle of the hogſhead cloſe, and let it lie. After the cyder has ſtood thus a fortnight or a month, then you may bottle it at your pleaſure.

To make chouder, a ſea diſh.

TAKE a belly-piece of pickle pork, ſlice off the fatter parts, and lay them at the bottom of the kettle, ſtrew over it onions, and ſuch ſweet-herbs as you can procure. TAke a midling large cod, bone and ſlice it as for crimping, pepper, ſalt, all-ſpice, and flour it a little, make a layer with part of the ſlices ; upon that a ſlight layer of pork again, and on that a layer of biſcuit, and ſo on, purſuing the like rule, until the kettle is filled to about four inches : cover it with a nice paſte, pour in about a pint of water, lute down the cover of the kettle, and let the top be ſupplied with live wood embers. Keep it over a ſlow fire about four hours.
     When you take it up, lay it in the diſh, pour in a glaſs of hot Madeira wine, and a very little India pepper : if you have oyſters, or truffles and morels, it is ſtill better ; thicken it with butter. Obſerve, before you put this ſauce in, to ſkim the ſtew, and then lay on the cruſt, and ſend it to table reverſe as in the kettle ; cover it cloſe with the paſte, which ſhould be brown.

To clarify ſugar after the Spaniſh way.

TAKE one pound of the best Liſbon ſugar, nineteen pounds of water, mix the white and ſhell of an egg, then beat it up to a lather ; then let it boil, and ſtrain it off : you muſt let it ſimmer over a charcoal fire, till it diminiſh to half a pint ; then put in a large ſpoonful of orange-flower water.

To make Spaniſh fritters.

TAKE the inſide of a roll, and ſlice it in three ; then ſoak it in milk ; then paſs it through a batter of eggs, fry them in oil ; when almoſt done, draw them off the oil, and lay them in a diſh ; over every pair of fritters you muſt throw cinnamon, ſmall coloured ſugar-plumbs, and clarified ſugar.

To fricaſey pigeons the Italian way.

QUARTER them, and fry them in oil ; take ſome green peaſe, and let them fry in the oil till they are almoſt ready to burſt ; then put ſome boiling water to them ; ſeaſon it with salt, pepper, onions, garlick, parſley, and vinegar. Veal and lamb do the ſame way, and thicken with yolks of eggs.

Pickled beef for preſent uſe.

TAKE the rib of beef, ſtick it with garlick and cloves ; ſeaſon it with ſalt, Jamaica pepper, mace, and ſome garlick pounded ; cover the meat with white wine vinegar, and Spaniſh thyme : you muſt take care to turn the meat every day, and add more vinegar, if required, for a fortnight ; then put it in a ſtew-pan, and cover it cloſe, and let it ſimmer on a ſlow fire for ſix hours, adding vinegar and white wine : if you chuſe, you may ſtew a good quantity of onions, and it will be more palatable.

Beef ſteaks after the French way.

TAKE ſome beef ſteaks, broil them till they are half done ; while the ſteaks are doing, have ready in a ſtew-pan ſome red wine, a ſpoonful or two of gravy ; ſeaſon it with ſalt, pepper, ſome ſhalots ; then take the ſteaks, and cut in ſquares, and put in the ſauce : you muſt put ſome vinegar, cover it cloſe, and let it ſimmer on a ſlow fire half an hour.

A capon done after the French way.

TAKE a quart of white wine, ſeaſon the capon with ſalt, cloves and whole pepper, a few ſhalots ; then put the capon in an earthen pan : you muſt take care it muſt not have room to ſhake ; it muſt be covered cloſe, and done on a ſlow charcoal fire.

To make Hamburgh ſauſages.

TAKE a pound of beef, mince it very ſmall, with half a pound of the beſt ſuet ; then mix three quarters of a pound of ſuet cut in large pieces ; then ſeaſon it with pepper, cloves, nutmeg, a great quantity of garlick cut ſmall, ſome white wine vinegar, ſome bay-ſalt, and common ſalt, a glaſs of red wine, and one of rum ; mix all this very well together ; then take the largeſt gut you can find, and ſtuff it very tight ; then hand it up a chimney, and ſmoke it with ſaw-duſt for a week or ten days ; hang them in the air, till they are dry, and they will keep a year. They are very good broiled in peaſe porridge, and roaſted with toaſted bread under it, or in an amulet.

Sauſages after the German way.

TAKE the crumb of a two-penny loaf, one pound o ſuet, half a lamb's lights, and a handful of parſley, ſome thyme, marjory, and onion ; mince all very ſmall ; then ſeaſon with ſalt and pepper. Theſe muſt be ſtuffed in a ſheep's gut ; they are fried in oil or melted ſuet, and are only fit for immediate uſe.

A turkey ſtuffed after the Hamburgh way.

TAKE one pound of beef, three quarters of a pound of ſuet, mince it very ſmall, ſeaſon it with ſalt, pepper, cloves, mace, and ſweet marjoram ; then mix two or three eggs with it, looſen the ſkin around the turkey, and ſtuff it. It muſt be roaſted.

Chickens dreſſed the French way.

TAKE them and quarter them, then broil, crumble over them a little bread and parſley ; when they are half done, put them in a ſtew-pan, with three or four ſpoonfuls of gravy, and double the quantity of white wine, ſalt and pepper, ſome fried veal balls, and ſome ſuckers, onions, ſhalots, and ſome green gooſeberries or grapes when in ſeaſon : cover the pan cloſe, and let it ſtew on a charcoal fire for an hour ; thicken the liquor with the yolks of eggs, and the juice of lemon ; garniſh the diſh with fried ſuckers, ſliced lemon, and the livers.

A calf's head dreſſed after the Dutch way.

TAKE half a pound of Spaniſh peaſe, lay them in water a night ; then one pound of while rice ; mix the peaſe and rice together, and lay it round the head In a deep diſh ; then take two quarts of water, ſeaſon it with pepper and ſalt, and coloured with ſaffron, then ſend it to bake.

Chickens and turkies dreſſed after the Dutch way.

BOIL them, ſeaſon them with ſalt, pepper and cloves ; then to every quart of both put a quarter of a pound of rice or vermicelli : it is eat with ſugar and cinnamon. The two laſt may be left out.

To make a fricaſey of claves feet and chaldron, after this Italian way.

TAKE the crumb of a threepenny loaf, one pound of ſuet, a large onion, two or three handfuls of parſley, mince it very ſmall, ſeason it with ſalt and pepper, three or four cloves of garlick, mix with eight or ten eggs ; then ſtuff the chialdron ; take the feet and put them in a deep ſtew-pan : it muſt ſtew upon ſlow fire till the bones are looſe ; then take two quarts of green peaſe, and put in the liquor ; and when done, you muſt thicken it with the yolks of two eggs and the juice of a lemon. It muſt be ſeaſoned with pepper, ſalt, mace, and onion, ſome parſley and garlick. You muſt ſerve it up with the above-ſaid pudding in the middle of the diſh, and garniſh the diſh with fried ſuckers, and ſliced onion.

To make a cropadeu, a Scotch diſh, &c.

TAKE oatmeal and water, make a dumplin ; put in the middle a haddock's liver, ſeaſon it well with pepper and ſalt ; boil it well in a cloth as you do an apple-dumplin. The liver diſſolves in the oat-meal, and eats very fine.

To pickle the fine purple cabbage, ſo much admierd at the great tables.

TAKE two cauliflowers, two red cabbages, have a peck of kidney-beans, ſix ſticks, with ſix cloves of garlick on each ſtick ; waſh all well, give them one boil up, then drain them on a ſieve and lay them leaf by leaf upon a large table, and ſalt them with bay-ſalt ; then lay them a-drying in the ſun, or in a ſlow oven, until as dry as cork.

To make the pickle.

TAKE a gallon of the beſt vinegar, with one quart of water, and a handful of ſalt, and an ounce of pepper ; boil them, let it ſtand till it is cold ; then take a quarter of a pound of ginger, cut it in pieces, ſalt it, let it ſtand a week ; take half a pound of muſtard ſeed, waſh it, and lay it to dry ; when very dry, bruiſe half oif it ; when half is ready for the jar, lay a row of cabbage, a row of cauliflowers and beans ; and throw betwext every row your muſtard-ſeed, ſome black pepper, ſome Jamaica pepper, ſome ginger ; mix an ounce of the root of turmerick powdered ; put in the pickle, which you muſt go over all. It is beſt when it hath been made two years, though it may be uſed the firſt year.

To raiſe muſhrooms.

COVER an old hot-bed three or four inches thick, with fine garden mould, and cover that three or four inches thick with mouldy long muck, of a horse muck-hill, or old rotted ſtubble ; when the bed has lain ſome time thus prepared, boil any muſhrooms that are not fit for uſe, in water, and throw the water on your prepared bed, in a day or two after, you will have the beſt ſmall muſhrooms.

The ſtag's heart water.

TAKE balm, flour handfuls, ſweet-marjoram one handful, roſemary flowers, clove-gilliflowers dried, dried rose-buds, borrage-flowers, of each an ounce ; marigold folowers half an ounce, lemon-peel tow ounces, mace and cardamum, of each thirty grains ; of cinnamon ſixty grains, or yellow and white ſanders, of each a quarter of an ounce, ſhavings of hearts-horn an ounce ; take nine oranges, and put in the peel ; then cut them in ſmall pieces ; pour upon theſe two quarts of the beſt Rheniſh, or the beſt white wine ; let it infuſe three or four days, being very cloſe ſtopped in a cellar or cool place : let it infuſe nine or ten days, it is the better.
     Take a ſtag's heart, and put off all the fat, and cut it very ſmall, and pour in ſo much Reniſh or white wine as will cover it ; let it ſtand all night cloſe covered in a cool place ; the next day add the aforeſaid things to it, mixing it very well together ; adding to it a pint of the beſt roſe-water, and a pint of the juice of celandine : if you pleaſe you may put in ten grains of ſaffron, and ſo put it in a glaſs ſtill, diſtilling in water, raiſing it well to keep in the ſteam, both of the ſtill and receiver.

To make angelica water.

TAKE eight handfuls of the leaves, waſh them and cut them, and lay them on a table to dry ; when they are dry ; put them into an earthen pot, and put to them four quarts of ſtrong wine-lees ; let it ſtay for twenty-four hours, but ſtir it twice in the time ; then put it into a warm ſtill or an alembeck, and draw it off ; cover your bottles with a paper, and prick holes in it ; ſo let it ſtand two or three days ; then mingle it all together, and ſweeten it ; and when it is ſettled, bottle it up, and ſtop it cloſe.

To make milk water.

TAKE the herbs agrimony, endive, fumetory, baum, elder flowers, white nettles, water creſſes, bank creſſes, ſage, each three handfuls ; eye-bright, brook lime, and celandine, each two handfuls ; the roſes of yellow dock, red madder, fennel, horse-raddiſh and liquorice, each three ounces ; raiſins ſtoned one pound, nutmegs ſliced, winter bark, turmeric, galangal, each two drams ; carraway and fennel ſeed three ounces, one gallon of milk. Diſtill all with a gentle fire in one day. You may add a handful of May wormwood.

To make ſlip-coat cheeſe.

TAKE ſix quarts of new milk hot from the cow, the ſtroakings, and put to it two ſpoonfuls of rennet ; and when it is hard coming, lay it into the fat with a ſpoon, not breaking it all ; then preſs it with a four pound weight, turning of it with a dry cloth once an hour, and every day ſhifting it into freſh graſs. It will be ready to cut, if the weather be hot, in flourteen days.

To make a brick-back cheeſe. It muſt be made in September.

TAKE two gallons of new milk, and a quart of good cream, beat the cream, put in tow ſpoonfuls of rennet, and when it is come, break it a little ; then put it into a wooden mould, in the ſhape of a brick. It muſt be half a year old before you eat it ; you muſt preſs it a little, and ſo dry it.

To make cordial poppy water.

TAKE two gallons of very good brandy, and a peck of poppies, and put them together in a wide-mouth'd glaſs, and let them ſtand forty-eight hours, and then ſtrain the poppies out ; take a pound of raiſins of the ſun, ſtone them ; and an ounce of coriander ſeed, and an ounce of ſweet fennel ſeeds, and an ounce of liquorice ſliced, bruiſe them all together, and put them into the brandy, with a pound of good powder ſugar, and let them ſtand four or eight weeks, ſhaking it every day ; and then ſtrain if off, and bottle it cloſe up for uſe.

To make white mead.

TAKE five gallons of water, add to that one gallon of the beſt honey ; then ſet it on the fire, boil it together well, and ſkim it very clean ; then take it off the fire, and ſet it by ; then take two or three races of ginger, the like quantity of cinnamon and nutmegs, bruiſe all theſe groſsly, and put them in a little Holland bag in the hot liquor, and ſo let it ſtand cloſe covered till it be cold ; then put as much ale-yeaſt to it as will make it work. Keep it in a warm place as they to ale ; and when it hath wrought well, run it up ; at tow months you may drink it, having been bottled a month. If you keep it four months, it will be the better.

To make brown pottage.

TAKE a piece of lean gravy-beef, and cut it into thin collops, and hack them with the back of a cleaver ; have a ſtew-pan over the fire, with a piece of butter, a little bacon cut thin ; let them be brown over the fire, and put in your beef ; let it ſtew till it be very brown ; put in a little flour, an then have your broth ready and fill up the ſtew-pan ; put in two onions, a bunch of ſweet herbs, cloves, mace, and pepper ; let it all ſtew together an hour covered ; then have your bread ready toaſted hard to put in your diſh, and ſtrain ſome of the broth to it, through a fine ſieve ; put a fowl of ſome ſort in the middle, with a little boiled ſpinage minced in it ; garniſhing your diſh with boiled lettuces, ſpinage and lemon.

To make white barley pottage, with a large chicken in the middle.

FIRST make your ſtock with an old hen, a knuckle of veal, a ſcrag end of mutton, ſome ſpice, ſweet-herbs and onions ; boil all together till it be ſtrong enough ; then have your barley ready boiled very tender and white, and ſtrain ſome of it through a cullender ; have your bread ready toaſted in your diſh, with ſome fine green herbs, minced chervil, ſpinage, ſorrel ; and put into your diſh ſome of the broth to your bread, herbs, and chicken ; then barley, ſtrained and re-ſtrained ; ſtew all together in the diſh a little while ; garniſh your diſh with boiled lettuces, ſpinage, and lemon.

Engliſh Jews puddings ; an excellent diſh for ſix or ſeven people, for the expence of ſixpence.

TAKE a calf's lights, boil them, chop them fine, and the crumb of a twopenny loaf ſoftened in the liquor the lights were boiled in ; mix them well together in a pan ; take about half a pound of kidney fat of a loin of veal or mutton that is roaſted, or beef ; if you have none, take ſuet : if you can get none, melt a little butter and mix in ; fry four or five onions, cut ſmasll and fried in dripping, not brown, only ſoft ; a very little winter-ſavoury and thyme, a little lemon-peel ſhred fine ; ſeaſon with all-ſpice, pepper, and ſalt to your palate, break in two eggs ; mix it all well together, and have ready ſome ſheep's guts nicely clean'd and fill them and fry them in dripping. This is a very goo diſh, and a fine thing for poor people ; bacauſe all ſort of lights are good, and will do, as hog's, ſheel's, and bullock's but calf's are beſt ; a handful of parſley boiled and chopped fine, is very good, mixed with the meat. Poor people may, inſtead of the fat above, mix the fat the onions were fried in, and they will be very good.

To make a Scotch haggaſs.

TAKE the lights, heart, and chitterlings of a calf, chop them very fine, and a pound of ſuet chopped fine ; ſaſon with pepper and ſalt to your palate ; mix in a pound of flour, or oatmeal, roll it up, and put it into a calf's bag, and boil it ; an hour and a half will do it. Some add a pint of good thick cream, and put in a little beaten mace, clove or nutmeg ; or all-ſpice is very good in it.

To make it ſweet with fruit.

TAKE the meat and ſuet as above, and flour, with beaten mace, cloves, and nutmeg to your palate, a pound of currants waſhed very clean, a pound of raiſins ſtoned and chopped fine, half a pint of ſack ; mix all well together, and biol it in the calf's bag two hours. You muſt carry it to table in the bag it wis boiled in.

To make ſour crout.

TAKE your fine hard white cabbage, cut them ſmall, have a tub on purpoſe with the head out, according to the quantity you intend to make ; put them in the tub : to every four or five cabbages, throw in a large handful of ſalt ; when you have done as many as you intend, lay a very heavy weight on them, to preſs them down as flat as poſſible, throw a cloth on them, and lay on the cover ; let them ſtand a month, then you bay begin to uſe it. It will keep twelve months, but be ſure to keep it always cloſe covered, and the weight on it ; if you throw a few carraway ſeeds pounded fine amongſt it ; they give it a fine flavour. The way to dreſs it is with a fine fat piece of beef ſtewed together. It is s diſh much made uſe of amongſt the Germans, and in the North Countries, where the frost kills all the cabbages ; therefore they preſerve them in this manner, before the froſt takes them.
     Cabbage-ſtalks, cauliflower-ſtalks, and artichoke-ſtalks, peel'd and cut fine down in the ſame manner, are very good.

To keep green peaſe, beans &c, and fruit, freſh and good till Chriſtmas.

OBSERVE to gather all your things in a fine clear day, in the increaſe or full moon ; take well-glazed earthen or ſtone pots quite new, that have not been laid in water, wipe them clean, lay in your fruit very carefully, and take great care none is bruiſed or damaged in the leaſt, nor too ripe, but juſt in their prime ; ſtop down the jar cloſe, and pitch it, and tie a leather over. Do kidney beans the ſame ; bury them two feet deep in the earth, and keep them there till you have occaſion for them. Do peaſe and beans the ſame way, only keep them in the pods, and don't let your peaſe be either too young or too old ; the one will run to water, and the other the worm will eat ; as to the two latter, lay a layer of fine writing ſand, and a layer of pods, and ſo on till full ; the reſt as above. Flowers you may keep the ſame way.

To make paco lilla, or Indian pickle, the ſame the mangos come over in.

TAKE a pound of race-ginger, and lay it in water one night ; then ſcrape it, and cut it in thin ſlices, and put to it ſome ſalt, and let it ſtand in the ſun to dry ; take long pepper two ounces, and do it as the ginger. Take a pound of garlick, and cut it in thin ſlices, and ſalt it, and let it ſtand three days ; then waſh it well, and let it be ſalted again, and ſtand three days more ; then waſh it well and drain it, and put it in the ſun to dry. Take a quarter of a pound of muſtard-ſeeds bruised, and half a quarter of an ounce of turmerick : put theſe ingredients, when prepared, into a large ſtone or glaſs jar, with a gallon of very good white wine vinegar, and ſtir it very often for a fortnight, and tie it up cloſe.
     In this pickle you may put white cabbage, cut in quarters, and put in a brine of ſalt and water for three days, and then boil freſh ſalt water and juſt put in the cabbage to ſcald, and preſs out the water, and put it in the ſun to dry, in the ſame manner as you do cauliflowers, cucumbers, melons, apples, French beans, plumbs, or any ſort of fruit. Take care they are all well dried before you put them into the pickle : you need never empty the jar, but as the things come into ſeaſon, put them in, and ſupply it with vinegar as often as there is occaſion.
     In the above, you may do walnuts in a jar by themſelves ; put the walnuts in without any preparation, tied cloſe down, and kept ſome time.

Here you will find the modern redaction for Hannah Glasse's To Make Paco Lilla or Indian Pickle.

To preſerve cucumbers equal with any Italian ſweetmeat.

TAKE fine young gherkins, of two or three different ſizes ; out them into a ſtone jar, cover them well with vine-leaves, fill the jar with ſpring-water, cover it cloſe ; let it ſtand near the fire, ſo as to be quite warm, for ten days or a fortnight ; then take them out, and throw them into ſpring-water, they will look quite yellow, and ſtink, but you muſt not mind that. Have ready your preſerving-pan ; take them out of that water, and put them into the pan, cover them well with vine-leaves, fill it with ſpring-water, ſet it over a charcoal fire, cover them cloſe, and let them ſimmer very ſlow ; look at them often, and when you ſee them turned quite of a fine green, take off the leaves, and throw them into a large ſieve ;then into a coarſe cloth, four or five times doubled ; when they are cold, put them into the jar, and have ready your ſyrup, made of double-refined ſugar, in which boil a great deal of lemon-peel and whole ginger ; pour it hot over them, and cover them down cloſe ; do it three times ; pare your lemon-peel very thin, and cut them in long thin bits, about two inches long ' the ginger muſt be well boiled in water before it is put in the ſyrup. Take long cucumbers, cut them in half, ſcoop ouf the inſide ; do them the ſame way : they eat very fine in minced pies or puddings ; or boil the ſyrup to a candy, and dry them on ſieves.

The Jews way of preparing ſalmon, and all ſorts of fiſh.

TAKE either ſalmon, cod or any large fiſh, cut off the head, waſh it clean, and cut it in ſlices as crimp'd cod is, dry it very well in a cloth ; then flour it, and dip it in yolks of eggs, and fry it in a great deal of oil, till it is of a fine brown, and well done ; take it out and lay it to drain, till it is dry and cold. Whitings, mackrel, and flat fiſh, are done whole ; when they are quite cold and dry, lay them in your pan or veſſel, throw in between them a good deal of mace, cloves, and ſliced nutmeg, a few bay leaves ; have your pickle ready, made the beſt white wine vinegar, in which you muſt boil a great may cloves of garlick and ſhalot, black and white pepper, Jamaica and long pepper, juniper berries and ſalt ; when the garlick begins to be tender, the pickle is enough : when it is quite cold, pour it on your fiſh, an a little oil on the top. They will keep god a twelvemonth, and are to be eat cold with oil and vinegar : they will go good to the Eaſt-Indies. All ſorts of fiſh fried well in oil, eat very fine cold with ſhalot, or oil and vinegar. Obſerve, in the pickling of your fiſh, to have the pickle ready : firſt put a little pickle in ; then a layer of fiſh ; then pickle ; then a little fiſh, and ſo lay them down very cloſe, and to be well covered ; put a little ſaffron in the pickle. Frying fiſh in common oil is not ſo expenſive with care ; for preſent uſe a little does ; and if the cook is careful not to burn the oil, or black it, it will fry them two or three times.

To preſerve tripe to go to the Eaſt-Indies.

GET a fine belly of tripe, quite freſh. Take a four gallon caſk well hooped, lay in your tripe, and have your pickle ready made thus : take ſeven quarts of ſpring-water, and put as much ſalt into it as will make an egg ſwin, that the little end of the egg may be about an inch above the water ; (you muſt take care to have the fine clear ſalt, for the common ſalt will ſpoil it) add a quart of the beſt white wine vinegar, two ſprigs of rosemary, an ounce of all ſpice, pour it on your tripe ; let the cooper faſten the caſk down directly ; when it comes to the Indies, it muſt not be opened till it is juſt a-going to be dreſſed ; for it won't keep after the caſk is opened. The way to dreſs it is, lay it in water half an hour ; then fry it or boil it as we do here.

The manner of dreſſing various ſorts of dried fiſh ; as ſtock-fiſh, cod ſalmon, whitings, &c.

The general rule for ſteeping of dried fiſh, the ſtock-fiſh excepted.
ALL the kinds, except ſtock-fiſh, are ſalted, or either dried in the ſun, as the moſt common way, or in prepared kilns, or by the ſmoke o wood-fired in chimeny corners ; and in either caſe, require the being ſoftened and freſhened in proportion to their bulk or bigneſs, their nature or dryneſs ; the very dry ſort, as, bacalao, cod-fiſh or whiting, and ſuch like, ſhould be ſteeped in luke warm milk and water ; the ſteeping kept as near as poſſible to an equal degree of heat. The larger fiſh ſhould be ſteeped twelve, the ſmall, as whiting, &c. about two hours. The cod are therefore laid to ſteep in the evening, the whitings, &c. in the morning before they are to be dreſſed ; after the time of ſteeping, they are to be taken out, and hung up by the tails until they are dreſſed : the reaſon of hanging them up is, that they ſoften qequally as in the ſteeping, without extrating too much of the reliſh, which would make them inſipid ; when thus prepared, the ſmall fiſh, as whiting, tuſk, and ſuch like, are flowered and laid on the gridiron ; and when a little hardened on the ſide, muſt be turned and baſted with oil upon a feather ; and when baſted on both ſides, and well hot through. taken up, always obſerving, that as ſwet oil ſupples, and ſupplies the fiſh with a kind of artificial juices, ſo the fire draws out thoſe juices and hardens them ; therefore be careful not to let them broil too long ; no time can be preſcribed, becauſe of the difference of fires, and various bigneſs of the fiſh. A clear charcoal fire is much the beſt way to know when they are enough is, they will ſwell as little in the baſting, and you muſt not let them fall again.
     The ſauces are the ſame as uſual to ſalt-fiſh, and garniſh with oyſters fried in batter.
     But for a ſupper, for thoſe that like ſweet oil, the beſt ſauce is oil, vinegar, and muſtard beat up to a conſiſtence, and ſerved up in ſaucers.
     But for ſupper, for thoſe that like ſweet oil, the beſt ſauce is oil, vinegar, and muſtard beat up to a conſiſtence, and ſerved up in ſaucers.
     If boiled as the great fiſh usually are, it ſhould be in milk and water, but not ſo properly boiled as kept juſt ſimmering over an equal fire ; in which way, half an hour will do the largeſt fiſh, and five minutes the ſmallest. Some people broil both ſorts after ſimmering, and ſome pick them to pieces, and then toſs them up in a pan with fried onions and apples.
     They are either way very good, and the choice depends on the weak or ſtrong ſtomach of the eaters.

Dried ſalmon muſt be differently managed ;

FOR though a large fiſh, they do not require more ſteeping than a whiting ; and when laid on the gridiron, ſhould be moderately peppered.

The dried hering,

INSTEAD of milk and water, ſhould be ſteeped the like time as the whiting, in ſmall beer ; and to which, as to all kind of broiled ſalt-fiſh, ſweet oil will always be found the beſt baſting, and no way affect even the delicacy of thoſe who do not love oil.

Stock-fiſh,

ARE very different from thoſe before-mentioned ; they being dried in the froſt without ſalt, are in their kind very inſipid, and are only eatable by the ingredients that make them ſo, and the art of cookery ; they ſhould be firſt beat with a ſledge hammer on an iron anvil, or on a very ſolid ſmooth oaken block ; and when reduced almoſt to atoms, the ſkin and bones taken away, and the remainder of the fiſh ſteeped in milk and warm water until very ſoft ; then ſtrained out, and put into a ſoop-diſh with new milk, powdered cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg ; the chief part cinnamon, and paſte round the edge of the diſh, and put in a temperate oven to ſimmer for about an hour, and then ſerved up in the place of pudding.
     N. B. The Italians eat the ſkin boiled, either hot or cold, and moſt uſually with oil and vinegar, preferring the ſkin to the body of the fiſh.

The way of curing mackrel.

BUY them as freſh as poſſible, ſplit them down the backs, open them flat : take out the guts, and waſh the fiſh very clean from the blood, hang them up by the trails to drain well : do this in the cool of the evening, or in a very cool place ; ſtrew ſalt at the bottom of the pan, ſprinkle the fiſh well with clean ſalt, lay them in the pan, belly to belly, and back to back ; let them lie in the ſalt about twelve hours, waſh the ſalt clean off in the pickle, hang them again up by the tails half an hour to drain ; pepper the inſides moderately, and lay them to dry on inclining ſtones facing the ſun ; never leaving them out when the ſun is off, nor lay them out before the ſun has diſperſed the dews, and the ſtones you lay them on be dry and warm. A week's time of fine weather perfectly cures them ; when cured, hang them up by the tails, belly to belly, in a very dry place, but not in ſea-coal ſmoak, it will ſpoil their flavour.

To dreſs cured mackrel.

EITHER fry them in boiling oil, and lay them to drain, or broil them before, or on a very clear fire : in the laſt caſe, baſte them with oil and a feather ; ſauce will be very little wanting, as they will be very moiſt and mellow, if good in kind, otherwiſe you may uſe melted butter and crimped parſley.

Calves feet ſtewed.

CUT a calf's foot into four pieces, put it into a ſauce-pan, with half a pint of ſoft water, and a middling potatoe ; ſcrape the outſide ſkin clean off, ſlice it thin, and a middling onion peeled and ſliced thin, ſome beaten pepper and ſalt, cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew very ſoftly for about two hours after it boils ; be ſure to let it ſimmer as ſoftly as you can : eat it without any other ſauce ; it is an excellent diſh.

To pickle a buttock of beef.

TAKE a large fine buttock of well fed ox beef, and with a long narrow knife make holes through, through which you muſt run ſquare pieces of at bacon, about as thick as your finger, in about a dozen or fourteen places, and have ready a great deal of parſley clean waſhed and picked fine, but not chopped ; and in every hole where the bacon is, ſtuff in as much of the parſley as you can get in, with a long round ſtick ; then take half an ounce of mace, cloves and nutmegs, an equal quantity of each, dried before the fire, and pounded fine, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper beat fine, a quarter of juniper berries beat fine, a quarter of a pound of loaf-ſugar beat fine, two large ſpoonfuls of fine ſalt, two tea-ſpoonfuls of India pepper, mix all together, and rub the beef well with it ; let it lie in this pickle two days, turning and rubbing it twice a day ; then throw into the pan two bay-leaves ; ſix ſhalots peeled and cut fine, and pour a pint of fine white vinegar over it, keeping it turned and rubb'd as above ; let it lie thus another day ; then pour over in a bottle of red port or Madeira wine ; let it lie thus in this pickle a week or ten days ; and wehn you dreſs it, ſtew it in the pickle it lies in, with another bottle of red wine ; it is an excellent diſh, and eats beſt cold, and will keep a month or ſix weeks good.

To make a fine bitter.

TAKE an ounce of the fineſt Jeſuit powder, half a quarter of an ounce of ſnake-root powder, half a quarter of an ounce of ſalt of wormwood, half a quarter of ſaffron, half a quarter of cochineal ; put it into a quart of the beſt brandy, and let it ſtand twenty-four hours ; every now and then ſhaking the bottle.

An approved method practiſed by Mrs. Dukely, the queen's tyre-woman, to preſerve hair, and make it grow thick.

TAKE one quart of white wine, put in one handful of roſemary flowers, half a pound of honey, diſtil them together ; then add a quarter of a pint of oil of ſweet almonds, ſhake it very well together, put a little of it into a cup, warm it blood warm, rub it well on your head, and comb it dry.

A powder for the heart-burn.

TAKE white chalk ſix ounces ; eyes and claws of crabs, of each an ounce ; oil of nutmeg ſix drops ; make them into a fine powder, About a dram of this in a glaſs of cold water is an infallible cure for the heart-burn.

A fine lip ſalve.

TAKE two ounces of virgin's wax, two ounces of hog's lard, half an ounce of ſpermaceti, one ounce of oil fo ſweet-almonds, two drams of balſam of Peru, two drams of alkanet root cut ſmall, ſix new raiſins ſhred ſmall, a little fine ſugar, ſimmer them all together a little while ; then ſtrain it of into little pots. It is the fineſt lip ſalve in the world.

To make Carolina ſnow balls.

TAKE half a pound of rice, waſh it clean, divide it into ſix parts ; take ſix apples, pare them and ſcoop out the core, in which place put a little lemon-peel ſhred very fine ; then have ready ſome thin cloths to tie the balls in : put the rice in the cloth, and lay the apple on it, tie them up cloſe : put them into cold water, and when the water boils, they will take an hour and a quarter boiling : be very careful how you turn them into the diſh, that you don't break the rice, and they will look as white as ſnow, and make a very pretty diſh. The ſauce is, to this quantity, a quarter of a pound of freſh butter, melted thick, a glaſs of white wine, a little nutmeg and beaten cinnamon, made very ſweet with ſugar : boil all up together, and pour it into a baſon, and ſend to table.

A Carolina rice pudding.

TAKE half a pound of rice, waſh it clean, put it into a ſauce-pan, with a quart of milk, keep it ſtirring till it is very thick : take great care it don't burn ; then turn it into a pan, and grate ſome nutmeg into it, and two teaſpoonfuls of beaten cinnamon, a little lemon-peel ſhred fine, ſix apples, pared and chopped ſmall : mix all together with the yolks of three eggs, and ſweetened to your palate ; then tie it up cloſe in a cloth ; put it into boiling water, and be ſure to keep it boiling all the time ; an hour and a quarter will boil it. Melt the butter and pour over it, and throw ſome fine ſugar all over it ; and a little wine in the ſauce will be a great addition to it.

To diſtil treacle water, lady Monmouth's way.

TAKE three ounces of hartſhorn, ſhaved and boiled in burrage water , or ſuccory wood, ſorrel ar reſpice water ; or three pints of any of theſe waters boiled to a jelly, and put the helly and hartſhorn both into the ſtill ; and add a pint more of theſe waters when you put it into the ſtill ; take the roots of ellicampane, gentian, cypreſs-tuninſil, of each an ounce ; of bleſs'd thiſtle, call'd cardus, and angelica, of each an ounce ; of ſorrel roots two ounces ; of balm, of ſweet marjoram, of burnet, of each half a handful ; lily comvally flowers, burrage, bugloſs, roſemary, and marigold flowers, of each two ounces ; of citron rinds, cardus ſeeds and citron ſeeds, of alkermes-berries and cochineal, each of theſe an ounce.

Prepare all theſe ſimples thus.

GATHER the flowers as they come in ſeaſon, and put them in glaſſes with a large mouth, and put with them as much good ſack as will cover them, and tie up the glaſſes cloſe with bladders wet in the ſack, with a cork and leather tied upon it cloſe ; adding more flowers and ſack as occaſion is ; and when one glaſs is full, take another, till you have your quantity of flowers to diſtil ; put cochineal into a pint bottle, with half a pint of ſack, and tie it up cloſe with a bladder under the cork, and another on the top wet in ſack, tied up cloſe with brown thread ; and then cover it up cloſe with leather, and bury it ſtanding upright in a bed of hot horſe-dung for nine or ten days ; look at it, and if diſſolved, take it out of the dung, but don't open it till you diſtill ; ſlice all the roſes, beat the ſeeds and the alkermes-berries, and put them into another glaſs ; amongſt all, put no more ſack than needs , and when you intend to diſtill, take a pound of the beſt Venice treacle, and diſſolve it in ſix pints of the beſt white wine, and three of red roſe-water, and put all the ingredients into a baſon, and ſtir them all together, and diſtil them in a glaſs ſtill, balnea Mariæ ; open not the ingredients till the ſame day you diſtil.

Back to the contents of Hannah Glasse's 1774 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy