Help Stefan CampaignElizabethan Food
Elizabethan food is fascinating for its range and breadth. At the time, Britain was slowly forging an empire and her vessels (though the navy was tiny as compared with that of the Spaniards) plied an almost global trade. New fruit, food and spices were reaching London and the great houses were vying with one another to prepare and serve the most lavish meals. In some respects the Elizabethan palate is extremely modern and the only major difference between the Elizabethans and us is their extreme use of sugar (which was becoming a common commodity supplied by the Canaries).
New foodstuffs such as the tomato, potato and the turkey were being introduced from the New World along with members of the capsicum family that included red peppers, cayenne, paprika and chilli. At this time the spice trade was also very important. Indeed, oriental spices constituted one of the most profitable and dynamic element in European trade and this drive for profit through new spices ( as well as the quest for gold and silver) encouraged the explorations of Elizabethan seamen such as Raleigh and Drake. Though Medieval cookery used a number of eastern spices the sheer range and diversity of what was available increased dramatically during Elizabethan times. These spices were still extremely expensive, however, and their use and uptake became a matter of social prestige. The more spices one's kitchens used the greater one's wealth and social status.
Elizabethan Ingredients
For Elizabethan recipes the following native ingredients were commonly used (the closest modern equivalent is also given).
Avens Avens is the plant Geum urbanum, also known as Herb Bennet, Wild Rye, Way Bennet and Clove Root. This herb grows in shady wooded spaces across Eurasia. The Elizabethans used blanched young leaves in salads and powdered the dry root to yield a clove-like spice. An approximation of this can be obtained by boiling several cloves in water and blanching young celery leaves in this. Seeds for this plant can also be bought and grown in your own garden.
Borage Borage is the plant Borago officinalis, which can easily be grown from seed in any garden. With its clusters of blue star-shaped flowers it is also amongst the prettiest herbs. The Elizabethan used the plant's hairy leaves in salads (these taste faintly of cucumbers) and peeled cucumber skin could be substituted. The flowers are also edible and can be used as a garnish.
Clary Clary is the plant Silvia sclarea, also known as Clary Sage, clear eye, eyebright, clarywort, and musoatel sage. This herb is a biennial and relatively easy to grow if you want an authentic taste. However, just about any fresh sage leaves can be substituted. This was used commonly in Elizabethan cooking as it cuts the grease of fatty meats and fish
Dittany Dittany is the plant Origanum dictamnus, also known as Dittany of Crete for this was the plant's original home. It is a member of the Marjoram/Oregano family with a spreading aspect, hairy ovate leaves and clusters of purplish flowers. These tended to be used in Elizabethan salad recipes. Dittany has effectively been replaced in its culinary usage by Sweet Marjoram (Origanum marjorana) and Wild Marjoram (Origanum vulgare).
Galingale Galingale is the plant Cyperus longus, also known as Sweet Galingale is a member of the sedge family. The roots are edible and highly-aromatic. These formed the main constituent of galyntyne, a pungent sauce. Though it will only give a hint of the true flavour 4:1 mix of galangal and ginger can be substituted.
Hyssop Hyssop is the plant Hyssopus officinalis, is a perennial herb easily grown from seed. During summer they bear small, edible, blue flowers on the upper part of their stems. The leaves have a slightly bitter minty flavour and and were added to stews as they cut the grease in fatty meats and fish. A mixture of chopped garden mint and a drop of asafoetida would give the same effect.
Laver Laver refers to any of several edible purplish-red seaweeds that include Porphyria umbilicalis, also known as purple laver, redware or sea tangle. Growing on the shore and in the sea, attached to rocks and stones, laver forms thin, roundish sheets of tissue up to 20 cm across. It becomes almost black when dry. This is easier to find today than you might expect as Japanese Nori is actually a form of green Laver.
Orach Orach is the plant Atriplex hortensis, commonly known as mountain spinach. There are four main varieties ranging in colour from pale green to purple and they are grown as a seasonal annual. Substitute spinach.
Pellitory Pellitory is the plant Parietaria officinalis, also known as Pellitory-of-the-wall is climbing plant of the nettle family whose leaves (especially the young buds) were used used in Elizabethan salad recipes.
Purslane Common Purslane is the plant Portulaca oleracea, also known as fatweed. Commonly thought of as a weed it has a reddish stem and small succulent leaves. It seems to have been a native of Persia, though variants are found worldwide. Though not commonly cultivated these days the plant is common and can be grown from wild seeds or stem cuttings. The Elizabethans used the leaves both as a potherb and in salads.
St John's Wort St John's Wort is the plant Hypericum perforatum, sometimes also known as the Sunshine Plant. It is a bushy perennial and narrow leaves that bears numerous star-shaped flowers. Linked today with possible anti-depressant properties it is easy to grow in your own garden from seeds and was used by the Elizabethans in salad recipes.
Southernwood Southernwood is the plant Artemisia abrotanum, also known as Old Man, Lad's Love, Boy's Love and Appleringie. This is the southern Wormwood and is a common perennial shrub with fine greyish-green leaves and a distinctive scent. In summer it bears spikes of yellow flowers. As a culinary herb a branch is cut and dried and portions of this can be added to stews. The branches also turn water a deep yellow colour when boiled and it was used by the Elizabethans as a food colouring.
Blaunderelle Blaunderelle (known in the Middle Ages as blaunderellys) were a variety of round white-fleshed apples commonly used in Elizabethan desserts. Now and endangered variety they are closely related to pippins which may be substituted.
Bullace Bullace is the fruit of the plant Prunus insititia, also known as Bullies, Bolas, Bullions and Wild Damson. These wild plums are common in Britain. The closely-related cultivated damson can be substituted.
Chibol Chibol is a type of small onion that is no longer cultivated. Substitute shallots.
Cubeb Cubeb is fruit of the plant Piper cubeba, also known as Cubeb Pepper. A native of Java, it is related to cardamom and has a similar flavour to allspice. This spice can be obtained from many specialist spice stores.
Medlar Medlar is the fruit of the plant Mespilus germanica and is closely related to both the pear and the hawthorn. It is a member of the rose family and its fruit resemble rose hips. Though not commonly planted Medlar root stocks can be bought and planted in your orchard. Quinces would provide an acceptable alternative.
Porret Porret, derived from the Latin porrum (leek) is effectively a young leek.
Skirret Skirret is the plant Sium sisarum. Originating in China this plant has a sweetish, somewhat aromatic root, which is used as a vegetable in much the same manner as the Oyster plant or Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) and the Parsnip (which can be used as a substitute).
Verjuice Verjuice Verjuice is the acidic juice pressed from unripe fruit, primarily grapes, but also other sour fruit such as green apples, crab apples, cooking apples and even plums. The name derives from the Old French 'vertjus' meaning 'green juice' and was common in Medieval and Elizabethan cookery. These days verjuice can be bought commercially, but one part cider vinegar, one part water with a dash of lemon and lime juice also makes an acceptable substitute.
Warden Warden refers to the Warden Pear originally grown in the Cistercian Abbey of Warden which were commonly used in pies, called Warden pies. The pear is also known as the Worcester Black Pear. Its descendant, the Spanish Warden is still used as a choice baking pear today. This is a hard pear with with either blackish skin or blackish bruises on its face. If you can't locate any, use a firm-fleshed pear.
Almond Milk Almond Milk is a common Elizabethan thickening agent It is a cloudy liquid prepared by steeping ground almonds in water, broth, or wine. Almond milk acted as the liquid base and/or thickening agent in a wide variety of medieval and Elizabethan dessert dishes.
Alkanet Alkanet is the plant Alkanna tinctoria, also known as Anchusa, Dyer's Bugloss, Spanish Bugloss and Orchanet. The Elizabethans used the roots of the plant which were generally boiled in spirit of vinegar to extract the deep red colour. Or the roots were added directly to oily stews. This plant was primarily used for its colourant properties and sweet paprika could be used instead.
Sandalwood Sandalwood is the plant Santalum album, and is a tree, originally native to india. The Elizabethans pulverized the wood of this tree to produce a compound that would colour their food a dark red. Again, sweet paprika can be used as an alternative.
Turnsole Turnsole is the any of the plants in the genus Heliotropium that can be used to create a grey-purple colouring known as heliotrope purple. This was used as a colourant in Elizabethan recipes.
Like all the main period sections on this site the recipes in this 'Elizabethan Foods' section are broken down into meal components. Simply click on the meal component on the left-hand column (eg 'Main Courses') to be taken to a page that lists all the recipes for that particular element of a meal.
You can also easily find any of the recipes on this site using the recipe search page.
I am also making a number of conversion tables available for converting between Volumes, Mass/Weight and Temperatures.
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