Celtnet Eliza Acton — Additions to the American Edition





Welcome to Celtnet's Eliza Acton's Additions to the American Edition Page — Here you will find the full text from the eighth chapter: Additions to the American Edition of Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...

The American edition, published in 1845 by Lea and Blanchard, Philadelphia, was based on the Second London Edition, but had a number of additions and ammendments as compared to the original. A number of recipes for ingredients not found in North America were removed and cooking methods and ingredients more suited to American cookery were substituted. Sometimes the names of recipes were changed or some small ammendments were made.

Changes to the American edition were made my Mrs S. J. Hale. In this chapter, all the additions to the American edition of the book are listed, including Mrs Hale's introduction and the text of all the recipes added to the American edition, along with the chapter they are derived from.

Additions to the American Edition of Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery





THE WHOLE REVISED AND PREPARED

FOR AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPERS,

BY MRS. S. J. HALE.



FROM THE SECOND LONDON EDITION.


PHILADELPHIA:
LEA AND BLANCHARD
1845.




PREFACE

TO

THE AMERICAN EDITION


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     I have often been surprised to observe hot far the art of Cookery in the United states is behing the age. It was therefore with much pleasure that I undertook, at the request of the publishers, to superintend an American edition of this new work of Miss Acton, when, on examination I found how well it was adapted to the wants of this country, at the present tiem.

     The Preface of the Author is so complete, and explains so fully her wishes and motives in publishing, that I have little to add, except to state that, as the work is presented solely as the result of the Author's experience, it would have been inconsistentwit hte plant to make many additions. Therefore, the few which have been made, refer chiefly to the preparation of those articles which may be regarded as more strictly America : such as Indian Corn, Terrapins, and some others. Whatever revision has taken place, is in reference to the use of a few articles and terms not generally known here, for which substitutes are presented, so as to adapt the work to this country. The additional matter will be found distinguished by brackets [—].

     This work has been so well received in England, as to have already passed to a second edition ; enjoying the universal approbation of the press, and the general favour of the public. I cannot but feel presuaded that, when know, it will prove equally astisfactory to the housekeepers of this country, and find its way into the hands of all who wish to improve in the Art of Cookery.

S. J. H.

philadelphia, August, 1845.





TABLE OF

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

By which persons not having scales and weights at hand may readily measure the articles wanted to form any receipt, without the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for an extraordinary dryness or moisture of the article weighed or measured.

WEIGHT AND MEASURE.
Wheat flourone pound isone quart.
Indian mealone pound, two ounces, isone quart.
Butter, when softone pound isone quart.
Loaf sugar, brokenone pound isone quart.
White sugar, powderedone pound isone quart.
Best brown sugarone pound, two ounces, isone quart.
Eggsten eggs areone pound.
Floureight quarts areone peck.
Flourfour pecks areone bushel.


LIQUIDS.
Sixteen large table-spoonfuls arehalf a pint
Eight large table-spoonfuls areone gill.
Four large table-spoonfuls arehalf a gill.
Two gills arehalf a pint.
Two pints areone quart.
Four quarts areone gallon.
A common-sized tumbler holdshalf a pint.
A common-sized wine-glasshalf a gill.
Twenty-five drops are equal to one tea-spoonful.




CHAPTER I.

SOUPS.

VEAL SOUP.
     Take four pounds of a knuckle of veal, break, and cut it small, put it into a stew-pan with two gallons of water; when it boils, skim it, and let it simmer till reduced to two quarts; strain, and season it with white pepper, salt, a little mace, a dessertspoonful of lemon juice, and return it to the pot, adding two onions finely minced, a head of celery, and a turnip cut in small pieces. Let it simmer about half an hour longer, thicken it with a large tablespoonful of flour kneaded with an ounce of butter.



PIGEON SOUP.
     Take eight pigeons, cut down two of the oldest, and put them with the necks, pinions, livers, and gizzards of the others, into four quarts of water; let it boil till the substance is extracted, and strain it; season the pigeons with mixed spices and salt, and truss them as for stewing; pick and wash clean a handful of parsley, chives or young onions, and a good deal of spinach, chop them; put in a frying-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, and when it boils, mix in a handful of bread crumbs, keep stirring them with a knife till of a fine brown; boil the whole pigeons till they become tender in the soup, with the herbs, and fried bread. If the soup be not sufficiently high seasoned, add more mixed spices and salt.



CHAPTER II.

FISH.

TO BROIL SALMON.
     This is a good method of dressing a small quantity of salmon for one or two persons. It may be cut in slices the whole round of the fish, each taking in two divisions of the bone; or the fish may be split, and the bone removed, and the sides of the fish divided into cutlets of three or four inches each : the former method is preferable, if done neatly with a sharp knife. Rub it thoroughly dry with a clean rough cloth ; then do each piece over with salad oil or butter. Have a nice clean gridiron over a very clear fire, and at some distance from it. When the bars are hot through wipe them, and rub with lard or suet to prevent sticking; lay on the salmon, and sprinkle with salt. When one side is brown, carefully turn and brown on the other. They do equally well or better in a tin or flat dish, in an oven, with a little bit of butter, or sweet oil; or they may be cone in buttered paper on the gridiron. Sauce, lobster or shrimp.



TO BAKE SALMON.
     If a small fish, turn the tail to the mouth, and skewer it; forcemeat may be put in the belly, or, if part of a large fish is to be baked, cut it in slices, egg it over, and dip it in the forcemeat. Stick bits of butter about the salmon (a few oysters laid round are an improvement.) It will require occasional basting with butter. When one side becomes brown, let it be carefully turned, and when the second side is brown, it is done. Take it up carefully, with all that lies about it in the baking dish. For sauce, melted butter, with two tablespoonsful of port wine, one of catsup, and the juice of a lemon, poured over the fish ; or anchovy sauce in a boat.



PICKLE SALMON.
     Do not scrape off the scales, but clean the fish carefully, and cut into pieces about eight inches long. Make a strong brine of salt and water; to two quarts, put two pounds of salt, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar; in all, make just enough to cover the fish; boil it slowly, and barely as much as you would for eating hot. Drain off all the liquor; and, when cold, lay the pieces in a kit or small tub. Pack it as close as possible, and fill up with equal parts of best vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled. Let it remain so a day or two, then again fill up. Serve with a garnish of fresh fennel. The same method of pickling will apply to sturgeon, mackerel, herrings, and sprats. The three latter are sometimes baked in vinegar, flavoured with allspice and bay leaves, and eat very well ; but will not keep more than a few days.



TO MAKE CHOWDER.
     Lay some slices cut from the fat part of pork in a deep stew-pan, mix sliced onions with a variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the pork; bone and cut a fresh cod into thin slices, and place them on the pork, then put a layer of pork, on that a layer of biscuit, then alternately the other materials until the pan is nearly full, season with pepper and salt, put in about a quart of water, cover the stew-pan very close, and let it stand, with fire above as well as below, for four hours ; then skim it well, and it is done.



TO BOIL ROCK-FISH, BLACK-FISH, AND SEA-BASS.
     Clean the fish with scrupulous care, particularly the back-bone, then lay the fish into the fish-kettle and cover it with cold water, strewing in a handful of salt (and a small pinch of saltpetre, if you have it), and place it over a moderate fire. Clean off the scum carefully, and let it boil very gently till it is done; then drain it, as directed for cod-fish, and dish it nicely—garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves. Celery sauce, or anchovy sauce, is the proper kind for these fish, or plain melted butter.



TO BOIL HALIBUT.
     Take a small halibut, or what you require from a large fish. Put it into the fish-kettle, with the back of the fish undermost, cover it with cold water, in which a handful of salt and a bit of saltpetre, the size of a hazle-nut, have been dissolved. When it begins to boil skim it carefully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds of fish will require half an hour, nearly, to boil it. Drain it, garnish with horse-radish or parsley—egg sauce, or plain melted butter, are served with it.



TO BOIL STURGEON.
     Take off the skin, which is very rich and oily; but in slices; season with pepper and salt ; broil over a clear fire; rub over each slice a bit of butter, and serve with no other accompaniment than lemon ; or the slices may be dipped in seasoning or forcemeat, twisted in buttered white paper, and so broiled. For sauce, serve melted butter with catsup. Garnish with sliced lemon, as the juice is generally used with the fish.



TO ROAST STURGEON.
     A piece of sturgeon may be tied securely on a spit, and roasted. Keep it constantly basted with butter, and when nearly done dredge with bread crumbs. When the flakes begin to separate, it is done. It will take about half an hour before a brisk fire. Serve with good gravy, thickened with butter and flour, and enriched with an anchovy, a glass of sherry wine, and the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon.



TO STEW STURGEON.
     Take enough gravy to cover the fish; set it on with a tablespoonful of salt, a few corns of black pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion or two, scraped horse-radish, and a glass of vinegar. Let this boil a few minutes; then set it aside to become pretty cool; then add the fish; let it come gradually to boil ; and then stew greatly till the fish begins to break. Take if off immediately ; keep the fish warm ; strain the gravy, and thicken with a good piece of butter; add a glass of port or sherry wine, a grate of nutmeg, and a little lemon juice. Simmer till it thickens, and then pour over the fish. Sauce, anchovy.



TO FRY STURGEON.
     Cut the fish into rather thin slices; sprinkle it well with salt on both sides; when the salt has drawn out all the moisture of the fish, roll it in bread crumbs and egg, and fry it in hot lard. When done, take it out and put a glass of water, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little lemon-peel into the pan, give it a boil, cup and strain it over the fish.



TO BAKE A SHAD.
     Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more than is necessary, and keep on the head and fins. Then stuff it with forcemeat No. 2, of Chapter VI. Sew it up, or fasten it with fine skewers, and rub the fish over with the yolk of egg and a little of the stuffing. Put into the pan in which the fish is to be baked about a gill of wine, or the same quantity of water mixed with a tablespoonful of cayenne vinegar, or common vinegar will do. Baked in a moderate oven 1 1/2 or 2 hours, according to its size.



TO BROIL SHAD.
     This delicate and delicious fish is excellent boiled. Clean, wash, and split the shad, wipe it dry, and sprinkle it with pepper and salt—broil it like mackerel.



TO FRY TROUT.
     Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain in hot butter; or beat the white of an egg on a plate, dip the trout in an egg and then in very fine bread-crumbs, which have been rubbed through a sieve—biscuit powder is better. Fry them till of a delicate brown; it takes but a few minutes if the trout be small—serve with crisp parsley and plain melted butter.



TO STEW LOBSTERS.
     A middling sized lobster is best : pick all the meat from the shells and mince it fine ; season with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; add three or four spoons of rich gravy and a small bit of butter. If you have no gravy, use more butter, and two spoonsful of vinegar ; stew about twenty minutes.



LOBSTER COLD.
     It is frequently eaten in this way, with a dressing of vinegar, mustard, sweet oil, and a little salt and cayenne.
     The meat of the lobster must be minced very fine.



TO COOK TERRAPINS.
     This is a favourite dish for suppers and parties; and, when well cooked, they are certainly very delicious. Many persons in Philadelphia have made themselves famous for cooking this article alone. Mrs. Rubicam, who during her lifetime always stood first in that way, prepared them as follows:—Put the terrapins alive in a pot of boiling water, where they must remain until they are quite dead. You then divest them of their outer skin and toe-nails; and, after washing them in warm water, boil them again until they become quite tender, adding a handful of salt to the water. Having satisfied yourself to the being perfectly tender, take off the shells and clean the terrapins very carefully, removing the sand-bag and gall without breaking them. Then cut the meat and entrails into small pieces, and put into a saucepan, adding the juice which has been given out in cutting them up, but no water, and season with salt, cayenne, and black pepper, to your taste; adding a quarter of a pound of good butter to each terrapin, and a handful of flour for thickening. After stirring a short time, add four or five tablespoonsful of cream, and half a pint of good Madeira to every four terapins, and serve hot in a deep dish. Our own cook has been in the habit of putting in a very little mace, a large tablespoonful of mustard, and ten drops of the gall; and, just before serving, adding the yolks of four hard boiled eggs. During the stewing, particular attention must be paid to stirring the preparation frequently; and it must be borne on mind, that terrapins cannot possibly be too hot.—Sanderson.



OYSTERS AU GRATIN.
     Take the best oysters you can find, and dry them on a napkin; you then place them on a silver shell, made expressly for the purpose, or fine, large, deep oyster shells, which should be well cleaned, placing in them four or six oysters, according to their size; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, mushrooms hashed very fine, a small quantity of bread-crumbs, with which the surface of the oysters must be covered, placing on top of all a small piece of the best butter. Then put them in a hot oven, and let them remain until they acquire a golden colour. Serve them hot.



BROILED OYSTERS.
     The oysters should be the largest and finest you can get. Prepare your gridiron, which should be a double one made of wire, by rubbing with butter, and having placed your oysters so that they will all receive the heat equally, set them over a brisk fire, and broil both sides without burning them. Let them be served hot, with a small lump of fresh butter, pepper and salt, added to them.



CHAPTER XI.

PORK.

TO ROAST SPARE-RIBS.
     Spare-rib should be rubbed with powdered sage mixed with salt and pepper, before it is roasted. It will require, if large and thick, two or three hours to roast it; a very thin one may be roasted in an hour. Lay the thick end to the fire. When you put it down, dust on some flour, and baste with a little butter.
     The shoulder, loin, and chine are roasted in the same manner. A shoulder is the most economical part to buy, and is excellent boiled. Pork is always salted before it is boiled.
     Apple, sauce is always proper to accompany roasted pork ; this, with potatoes, mashed or plain, mashed turnips, and pickles is good.



CHAPTER XII.

POULTRY.

TO STEW PIGEONS.
     Wash and clean six pigeons, cut them into quarters, and put all their giblets with them into a stewpan, a piece of butter, a little water, a bit of lemon-peel, two blades of mace, some chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; cover the pan closely, and stew them till they are tender; thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg beaten up with three table-spoonsful of cream and a bit of butter dusted with flour ; let them stew ten minutes longer before serving. This is an excellent and economical way of cooking them.



CHAPTER XIII

GAME.

TO ROAST WILD PIGEONS.
     Pigeons, when stuffed, require some green parsley to be chopped very fine with the liver and a bit of butter, seasoned with a little pepper and salt; or they may be stuffed with the same as a fillet of veal. Fill the belly of each bird with either of these compositions. They will roast in about twenty or thirty minutes. Serve with parsley and butter, with a dish under them, with some in a boat. Garnish with crisp parsley, fried bread crumbs, bread sauce or gravy.



TO ROAST SMALL BIRDS.
     The most delicate of these are larks, which are in high season in November and December. When cleaned and prepared for roasting, brush them with the yolks of an egg, and roll in bread crumbs; spit them on a lark-spit, and tie that on a larger spit; ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire will do them; baste them with fresh butter, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs, till they are quite covered, while roasting. Sauce, grated bread fried in butter, which set to drain before the fire that it may harden; serve the crumbs under the larks when you dish them, and garnish them with slices of lemon. Wheaters are dressed in the same way.



REED BIRDS.
     Having carefully picked your birds, which should be very fat, draw them with the great care possible so as not to rob them of any fat, and truss them on a skewer, which you fasten to the spit, and cook them before a brisk fire; a very few minutes is requisite. In serving them, place them on buttered toast, and pour a small portion of gravy over them. Let them be hot. This is generally considered to be the best manner of serving reed-birds, although many persons prefer them breaded and fried, or barbecued. When they are very fat it is unnecessary to draw them. The season for this delicious bird is from the middle of September to the first or second week in October.



TO ROAST CANVASS-BACK DUCKS.
     Let your duck be young and fat, if possible; having picked it well, drawn it and singe carefully, without washing it, so as to preserve the blood, and consequently, all its flavour. You then truss it, leaving its head on for the purpose of distinguishing it from common game, and place it on the spit before a brisk fire, for at least fifteen minutes. Then serve it hot, in its own gravy, on a large chafing-dish. The best birds are found on the Potomac River; they have the head purple, and the breast silver colour, and it is considered superior in quality and flavour to any other species of wild duck. The season is only during the cold weather.



CHAPTER XV.

VEGETABLES.

ANOTHER WAY TO BOIL POTATOES.
     Pare, wash and throw them into a pan of cold water; then put them on to boil in a clean pot with cold water sufficient to cover them, and sprinkle over a little salt; let them boil slowly uncovered till you can pass a fork through them ; pour off the water, and set them where they will keep hot till wanted. When done in this way they are very mealy and dry.
     Potatoes either boiled or roasted, should never be covered to keep them hot.



TO BOIL WINTER SQUASH.
     Squash is a rich vegetable, particularly the yellow winter squash. This requires more boiling than the summer kind. Pare it, cut in pieces, take out the seeds and boil it in a very little water till it is quite soft. Then press out all the water, mash it and add a little butter, pepper and salt.



TO FRY ONIONS.
     Peel and slice them evenly, have ready a pan of hot butter, or salt-pork fat, and fry the onions till slightly browned.



TO BOIL ONIONS.
     Take onions of the same size, peel and wash them, lay them in some pan or kettle with a broad bottom, so that the onions may not be piled one upon another. Cover them with water, or milk and water if you like them very milk, and let them simmer slowly for 20 minutes, or till done.



CHAPTER XXVI.

SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c.

CURRANT WINE.
     Gather the currants when dry, extract the juice, either by mashing and pressing the fruit, or putting it in a jar, placed in boiling water ; strain the juice, and for every gallon allow gone gallon of water and three pounds of sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the water, and take off the scum; let it cool, add it to the currant-juice, and put the mixture in a keg, but do not close it tightly till it has ceased fermenting, which will not be under a week. In three or four weeks, it may be bottled. The white of an egg beaten, mixed with a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and stirred into the liquid, makes the wine look clear and bright.



TO CLEAN BOTTLES IN LARGE NUMBERS.
     To do this in the best and quickest manner, rinse such amongst them as may particularly require it; put a little hay or coarse cloth into a copper, and arrange them in it as compactly as possible; cover them with cold water, light the fire, and boil them gently for half an hour; take them out, let them cool, rinse them well, and when dry they will be ready for use. One or two may be broken in the process, but it is considered the most advantageous method of proceeding where they are very extensively used.



CHAPTER XXVII.

COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c.

TO MAKE TEA.
     Scald the teapot with boiling water; then put in the tea, allowing three teaspoonsful to a pint of water—or for every two persons. Pour on the water. It must be boiling hot, and let the tea steep about ten minutes.
     Black tea is healthier than green. Hyson and Souchong mixed together, half and half, is a pleasanter beverage than either alone, and safer for those who drink strong tea, than to trust themselves wholly with green.



CHAPTER XXVIII.

BREAD.

DYSPEPSIA BREAD.
     This bread is now known as "Graham bread"-14;not that Doctor Graham invented or discovered the manner of its preparation, but that he has been unwearied and successful in recommending it to the public. It is an excellent article of diet for the dyspeptic and costive; and for most persons of sedentary habits would be beneficial. It agrees well with children; and, in short, I think it should be used in every family, though not to the exclusion of fine bread. The most difficult point in manufacturing this bread, is to obtain good pure meal. Ot is said that much of the bread commonly sold as dyspepsia, is made of the bran or middlings, from which the fine flour has been separated; and that saw-dust is sometimes mixed with the meal. To be certain that it is good, send good, clean wheat to the mill, have it ground rather coarsely, and keep the meal in a dry, cool place. Before using it, sift it through a common hair-sieve; this will separate the very coarse and harsh particles.
     Take six quarts of this wheat meal, one tea-cup of good yeast, and a half a tea-cup of molasses, mix these with a pint of milk-warm water and tea-spoonful of pearlash or salœratus. Make a hole in the flour, and stir this mixture in the middle of the meal till it is like batter. Then proceed as with fine flour bread. Make two pounds per loaf when baked. It requires a hotter oven than fine flour bread, and must bake about an hour and a half.



RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
     This is a sweet and nourishing diet, and generally acceptable to children.
     It is economical, and when wheat is scarce, is a pretty good substitute for dyspepsia bread.
     There are many different proportions of mixing it—some put one-third Indian meal with two of rye; others like one-third rye and two of Indian; others prefer it half and half.
     If you use the largest proportion of rye meal, make your dough stiff, so that it will mould into loaves;—when it is two-thirds Indian, it should be softer, and baked in deep earthen or tin pans after the following rules.
     Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal; put it into a glazed earthen pan, sprinkle over it a tablespoonful of fine salt; pour over it about two quarts of boiling water, stir and work it till every part of the meal is thoroughly wet; indian meal absorbs a great quantity of water. When it is about milk-warm, work in two quarts of ry meal, half a pint of lively yeast, mixed with a pint of warm water; add more warm water if needed. Work the mixture well with your hands: it should be stiff, but not firm as flour dough. Have ready a large, deep, well-buttered pan; put in the dough, and smooth the top by putting your hand in warm water, and then patting down the loaf. Set this to rise in a warm place in the winter; in the summer it should not be put by the fire. When it begins to crack on the top, which will usually be in about an hour or an hour and a half, put it into a well-heated oven, and bake it three or four hours. It is better to let it stand in the oven all night, unless the weather is warm. Indian meal requires to be well cooked. The loaf will weigh between seven and eight pounds. Pan-bread keeps best in large loaves.
     Many use milk in the mixing bread;—in this country, where milk is plentiful, it is a good practice, as bread is certainly richer wet with sweet milk than with water; but it will not keep so long in warm weather.
     Baking can very well be done in a stove; during the winter this is an economical way of cooking—but the stove must be carefully watched, or there is danger of scorching the bread.



BREAKFAST BATTER-CAKES.
     TAke one pint of milk, three eggs, a piece of butter as large as an egg, two spoonsful of yeast, and flour enough to make stiff batter; bake them in tin hoops or on a griddle, let them stand and rise all night, but not in a very warm place.



TEA CAKES.
     Rub into a pound of flour, an ounce of butter, a beaten egg, and half a teaspoonful of salt; wet it with warmed milk; make the paste rather stiff, and let it remain before the fire, where it will be kept warm for an hour or two; then roll it thin and cut it with the top of a tumbler; bake it quick.



MUFFINS.
     Muffins are baked on a hot iron plate, and not in an oven. To a quarter of a peck of flour add three-quarters of a pint of yeast, four ounces of salt, and as much water (or milk) slightly warmed, as is sufficient to form a dough of rather a soft consistency. Small portions of the dough are then put into holes, previously made in a layer of flour about two inches thick, placed on a board, and the whole is covered up in a blanket, and suffered to stand near the fire, to cause the dough to rise; when this is effected, they will each exhibit a semi-globular shape; they are then placed on a heated iron plate, and baked; when the bottoms of the muffins begin to acquire a brownish colour, they are turned, and baked on the opposite side.



WHEAT MUFFINS.
     Melt a small piece of butter into a quart of milk, and set it aside until cold—beat four eggs very light, and make a batter by adding alternately and very gradually a little milk and flour, until the batter is of the proper consistence, which is quite thin—then add a large spoonful of yeast, if you do not use the powders. Bake them in muffin-rings on a griddle, and butter them before serving—they must be torn asunder to butter, as cutting them open renders them heavy.



RICE MUFFINS.
     Rice mums are made in the same manner exactly as rice cakes, except that the batter of the former is thinner—that is, to a quart of milk and three eggs, you put less rice and less flour.



RICE CAKES.
     Boil half a pint of rice until quite soft, setting it aside until perfectly cool; beat three eggs very light and put them with a pint of wheat flour to the rice, making it into a batter with a quart of milk; beat it well, and set it to rise with a spoonful of yeast, or use the yeast powders as directed in a note at the foot of this page. Bake on a griddle, and butter them before sending them to table.



BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
     To a quart of buckwheat meal put a little Indian meal (say a tablespoonful) and a little salt; make them into a batter with cold water, taking care to beat it very well, as the excellence of buckwheat cakes depends very much on their being well beaten; then put in a large spoonful of good yeast,* and set to rise; when sufficientiy risen, bake them a clear brown on a griddle. They are usually buttered before being sent to table.



FLANNEL CAKES.
     Melt a table-spoonful of butter in a quart of milk, and after stirring it well, set it away to cool; then heat four eggs very light, and stir them into the milk in turn with half a pound of sifted flour; put in a spoonful of yeast, and set it aside. These are baked on a griddle like buckwheat cakes, and are always buttered before being sent to table.



YEAST.
     It is impossible to have good light bread, unless you have lively, sweet yeast. When common family beer is well brewed and kept in a clean cask, the settlings are the best of yeast. If you do not keep beer, then make common yeast by the following method.
     Take two quarts of water, one handful of hops, two of wheat bran; boil these together twenty minutes; strain off the water, and while it is boiling hot, stir in either wheat or rye flour, till it becomes a thick batter; let it stand till it is about blood warm; then add a half pint of good smart yeast and a large spoonful of molasses, if you have it, and stir the whole well. When it becomes perfectly light, it is fit for use. If not needed immediately, it should, when it becomes cold, be put in a clean jug or bottle; do not fill the vessel, and the cork must be left loose till the next morning, when the yeast will have done working. Then cork it tightly, and set in a cool place in the cellar. It will keep ten or tweelve days.



MILK YEAST.
     Take one pint of new milk; one teaspoonful of fine salt, and a large spoon of flour—stir these well together; set the mixture by the fire, and keep it just lukewarm; it will be fit for use in an hour. Twice the quantity of common yeast is necessary; it will not keep long. Bread made of this yeast dries very soon; but in the summer it is sometimes convenient to make this kind when yeast is needed suddenly.
     Never keep yeast in a tin vessel. If you find the old yeast sour, and have not time to prepare new, put in salœratus, a teaspoonful to a pint of yeast, when ready to use it. If it foams up lively, it will raise the bread ; if it does not, never use it.



HARD YEAST.
     Boil three ounces of hops in six quarts of water, till only two quarts remain. Strain it, and stir in while it is boiling hot, wheat or rye meal till it is thick as batter. When it is about milk-warm add half a pint of good yeast, and let it stand till it is very light, which will probably be about three hours. Then work in sifted Indian meal till it is stiff dough. Roll it out on a board; cut it in oblong cakes about three inches by two. They should be about half an inch thick. Lay these cakes on a smooth board, over which a little flour has been dusted; prick them with a fork, and set the board in a dry clean chamber or store-room, where the sun and air may be freely admitted. Turn them every day. They will dry in a fortnight unless the weather is damp. When the cakes are fully dry, put them into a coarse cotton bag; hang it up in a cool, dry place. If rightly prepared these cakes will keep a year, and save the trouble of making new yeast every week.
     Two cakes will make yeast sufficient for a peck of flour. Break them into a pint of lukewarm water and stir in a large spoonful of flour, the evening before you bake. Set the mixture where it can be kept moderately warm. In the morning it will be fit for use.



POTATOE YEAST.
     Is made of mealy potatoes boiled thoroughly soft—they are then skinned and mashed as smooth as possible, when as much hot water should be put on them as will make a mash of the consistency of good beer yeast. Add to every pound of potatoes two ounces of treacle, and when just warm stir in for every pound of potatoes two large spoonsful of yeast. Keep it warm till it has done fermenting, and in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use. A pound of potatoes will make nearly a quart of yeast, and it is said to be equally as good as brewers’ yeast.



The following is Dr. Lettsom’s directions for making another Prepared Yeast.
     Thicken two quarts of water with four ounces of flour, boil it for half an hour, then sweeten it with three of brown sugar; when almost cold, pour it along with four spoonsful of bakers' yeast into an earthen jug, deep enough for the fermentation to go on without running over; place it for a day near the fire; then pour off the thin liquor from the top, shake the remainder, and close it up for use, first straining it through a sieve. To preserve it sweet, set it in a cool cellar, or hang it some depth in a well. Always keep some of this yeast to make the next quantity that is wanted.



CHAPTER XXIX.

AMERICAN MODE OF COOKING INDIAN CORN, PUMP KINS, &.c.

Maize or Indian corn has never been extensively used in Great Britain, and the editor has every reason to believe that this has arisen from the almost total ignorance of the English people as to the mode of preparing it for human food. It is, perhaps, the most productive crop that can be grown, and its nutritious qualities, when properly prepared, are equal to its productiveness. We are satisfied that it may be grown in that country, or, at any rate, in the south and eastern parts of it, with great advantage; indeed, the experiment has been tried, and with decided success. The late Mr. Cobbett grew an average crop of the dwarf kind on Bam Elms farm, Surrey, for three or four years.



INDIAN CAKE, OR BANNOCK.
     This, as prepared in our own country, is cheap and very nice food. Take one quart of Indian meal, dressed or sifted, two tablespoonful of treacle or molasses, two teaspoonful of salt, a bit of "shortening" (butter or lard) half as big as a hen's egg, stirred together; make it pretty moist with scalding water, put it into a well-greased pan, smooth over the surface with a spoon, and bake it brown on both sides before a quick fire. A little stewed pumpkin, scalded with the meal, improves the cake. Bannock split and dipped in butter makes very nice toast.



GREEN INDIAN CORN.
     This is a most delicious vegetable. When used as a vegetable, the cobs, or ears, are plucked about the time that the com has arrived at a milky state, or just before it assumes a solid substance. A of the leaves or filaments by which the cob, or ear is surrounded, is taken away, and the cobs boiled from twenty to forty minutes, "according to its age." When it is done, it is served with cold or melted butter, and eaten (after being stripped of its reaming leaves) by taking the two ends of the cob in the hands, and biting the corn. The editor can bear testimony to its delicious quality.



INDIAN CORN, OR MAIZE PUDDING, BAKED.
     Scald a quart of milk (skimmed milk will do), and stir in seven tablespoonsful of sifted Indian meal, a teaspoonful of salt, a teacupful of molasses or treacle, or coarse moist sugar, and a tablespoonful of powdered ginger or sifted cinnamon: bake three or four hours. If whey is wanted, pour in a little cold milk after it is all mixed.



BOILED MAIZE PUDDING.
     Stir Indian meal and warm milk together "pretty stiff;" a little salt and two or three "great spoonsful" of molasses added; also a spoonful of ginger, or any other spice that may be preferred. Boil it in a tight-covered pan, or in a very thick cloth; if the water gets in, it will ruin it. Leave plenty of room, for Indian meal swells very much. The milk with which it is mixed should be merely warmed; if it be scalding hot, the pudding will break to pieces. Some chop suet very fine, and warm in the milk; others warm thin slices of apple to be stirred into the pudding. Water will answer instead of milk.



PUMPKIN AND SQUASH PIE.
     The usual way of dressing pumpkins in England in a pie is to cut them into slices, mixed with apples, and bake them with a top crust like ordinary pies. A quite different process is pursued in America, and the editor can testify to the immense superiority of the Yankee method. In England, the pumpkin is grown for show rather than for use; nevertheless, when properly dressed, it is a very delicious vegetable, and a universal favourite with our New ENgland neighbours.
     The following is the American method of making a pumpkin pie:—
     Take out the seeds, and pare the pumpkin or squash; but in taking out the seeds do not scrape the inside of the pumpkin; the part nearest the seed is the sweetest; then stew the pumpkin, and strain it through a sieve or colander. To a quart of milk, for a family pie, three eggs are sufficient. Stir in the stewed pumpkin with your milk and beaten-up eggs till it is as thick as you can stir round rapidly and easily. If the pie is wanted richer make it thinner, and add another egg or two; but even one egg to a quart of milk makes "very decent pies." Sweeten with molasses or sugar; add two teaspoonsful of salt, two tablespoonsful of sifted cinnamon, and one of powdered ginger; but allspice may be used, or any other spice that may be preferred. The peel of a lemon grated in gives it a pleasant flavour. The more eggs, says our American authority, the better the pie. Some put one egg to a gill of milk. Bake about an hour in deep plates, or shallow dishes, without an upper crust, in a warm oven.



There is another method of making this pie, which we know from experience, produces an excellent dish: Take out the seeds, and grate the pumpkin till you come to the outside skin. Sweeten the pulp; add a little ground allspice, lemon-peel, and lemon-juice; in short, flavour it to your taste. Bake without an upper crust.



CARROT PIES.
     These pies are made like pumpkin pies. The carrots should be boiled very tender, skinned, and sifted.



AMERICAN CUSTARD PUDDINGS.
     Sufficiently good for common use, may be made by taking five eggs beaten up and mixed with a quart of milk, sweetened with sugar spiced with cinnamon, allspice, or nutmeg. It is well to boil your milk first, and let it get cold better using it. "Boiling milk enriches it so much, that boiled skim milk is about as good as new." (We doubt this assertion; at any rate, it can only be improved by the evaporation of the water.) Bake fifteen or twenty minutes.



AMERICAN PLUM PUDDING.
     Pound six hard fine biscuits (crackers), soak them for some hours in milk sufficient to cover the mass; add three pints of milk, beat up six eggs, and mix; flavour with lemon-brandy, and a whole nutmeg grated; add three-quarters of a pound of stoned raisins, rubbed in flour. Bake not quite two hours.



AMERICAN APPLE PUDDINGS.
     Take your apples, and bore out the core without cutting them in two. Fill up the holes with washed rice. Tie up each apple very tight, and separately in the corners of a pudding-bag. Boil an hour, or an hour and a half.



BIRD'S NEST PUDDINGS.
     If you wish to make what is called a bird’s nest pudding, prepare your custard; take eight or ten pleasant apples, prepare them and take out the core, but leave them whole; set them in a pudding-dish, pour your custard over them, and bake about thirty minutes.



HASTY PUDDING.
     Boil water, a quart, three pints, or two quarts, according to the size of your family; sift your meal, stir five or six spoonsful of it thoroughly into a bowl of water; when the water in the kettle boils, pour into it the contents of the bowl; stir it well, and let it boil up thick; put in salt to suit your own taste, then stand over the kettle, and sprinkle in meal, handful after handful, stirring it very thoroughly all the time, and letting it boil between whiles. When it is so thick that you stir it with great difficulty, it is about right. It takes half an hour's cooking. Eat it with milk and molasses. Either Indian meal or rye meal may be used. If the system is in a restricted state, nothing can be better than rye hasty pudding and West Indian molasses. This diet would save many a one the horrors of dyspepsia.



DRY BREAD.
     As far as possible, have bits of bread eaten up before they become hard. Spread those that are not eaten, and let them dry, to be pounded for puddings, or soaked for brewis. Brewis is made of crusts and dry pieces of bread, soaked a good while in hot milk, mashed up and salted, and buttered like toast.



ANOTHER SORT OF BREWIS.
     The author of Domestic Cookery observes, that a very good meal may be bestowed on poor people in a thing called brews, which is thus made: Cut a very thick upper crust of bread, and put it into the pot where salt beef is boiling, and nearly ready ; it will attach some of the fat, and when swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to those who rarely taste meat.



TO PRESERVE CHEESE.
     Cover the cheese carefully with paper, fastened on with paste, so as totally to exclude the air. In this way cheese may be kept for years.



AMERICAN MINCE MEAT.
     Take the good bits of vegetables, and the cold meat left after dinner. Mash your vegetables fine, and chop your meat very dine. Warm it with what remains of gravy, or roast-meat dripping. Two or three apples, sliced and fried to mix with it, are considered an improvement. Some like a little sifted sage sprinkled in it. After it is warmed, lay it upon a large slice of toasted bread. Potatoes should not be used in the preparation of American mince meat.



AMERICAN SOUSE.
     Take pigs’ feet, ears, &c. well cleaned, and boil or rather simmer them for four or five hours, until they are too tender to be taken out with a fork. When taken from the boiling water, it should be put into cold water. After it is packed down tight, boil the jelly-like liquor in which it was cooked with an equal quantity of vinegar; salt as you think fit, and add cloves, allspice, and cinnamon.



PORK AND BEANS
     Is an economical dish; but it does not agree with weak stomachs. Put a quart of beans into two quarts of cold water, and hang them all night over the fire, to swell. In the morning pour off the water, rinse them well with two or three waters poured over them in a colander. Take a pound of pork, that is not very fiat, score the rind, then again place the beans just covered with water in the kettle and keep them hot over the fire for an hour or two; then drain off the water, sprinkle a little pepper and a teaspoonful of salt over the beans; place them in a well-glazed earthen pot, not very wide at the top, put the pork down in the beans, till the rind only appears; fil the pot with water till it just reaches the top of the beans, put it in a brisk oven and bake three or four hours.
     Stewed beans and pork are prepared in the same way, only they are kept over the fire, and the pork in them three or four hours instead of being in the oven. The beans will not be white or pleasant to the taste unless they are well soaked and washed—nor are they healthy without this process.







G A R N I S H E S .

     Parsley is the most universal garnish to all kinds of cold meat, poultry, fish, butter, cheese, and so forth. Horse-radish is the garnish for roast beef; and for fish in general; for the latter, slices of lemon are sometimes laid alternately with heaps of horse-radish.
     Slices of lemon for boiled fowl, turkey, and fish, and for roast veal and calf ’s head.
     Carrot in slices for boiled beef; hot or cold.
     Barberries fresh or preserved for game.
     Red beet-root sliced for cold meat, boiled beef, and salt fish.
     Fried smelts as garnish for turbot.
     Fried sausages or force meat-balls round roast turkey, capon, or fowl.
     Lobster coral and parsley round boiled fish.
     Fennel for mackerel and salmon, either fresh or pickled.
     Currant jelly for game, also for custard or bread pudding.
     Seville orange in slices for wild ducks, widgeons, teal and so forth.
     Mint, either with or without parsley, for roast lamb, either hot or cold.
     Pickled gherkins, capers, or onions, for some kinds of boiled meat and stews.





SETTING OUT A TABLE.

     A prudent housekeeper, in providing for a family, or for company, will endeavour to secure variety, and avoid extravagance, taking care not to have two dishes alike, or nearly alike, such as ducks and pork, veal and fowls; and avoiding, when several sorts are required, to have such things as cannot be eaten cold, or cannot be warmed or re-cooked. There is a great waste occasioned if these principles are overlooked in providing for a party. When a table is to be set out, it is usual to place nearly the whole provisions at once; but if comfort is the object, it is better to have each dish and its accompanying sauces and vegetables sent in separately, hot from the kitchen.
     For plain family dinners, soup or pudding is placed at the head of the table, and meat at the lower end; vegetables on each side of the middle, and sauce boats in the middle. Boiled meat at the top; roast meat at bottom; soup in the middle; then the vegetables and sauce boats at cross corners of the middle dish. Poultry or mutton at bottom; boiled poultry at top; roast poultry, or game, at bottom; vegetables and sauces so disposed as to give the appearance of the whole table being covered without being crowded.
     When there are several courses, the first consists of soups, stews, boiled fish, fricassees; poultry with ham, bacon, tongue, or chine; and roast or boiled meat.
     For second course, birds and game of all sorts, fish fried, pickled, or potted; pigeon pies, patties, brawn, omelettes, oysters stewed or scolloped, and lobsters or crabs. Tarts, cheesecakes and sweet dishes of all kinds, are sometimes placed with the second course, but more frequently from separate courses by themselves.
     The dessert is usually served in another room, which is a great accommodation both to the servants, who can prepare it at leisure, and to the guests in quitting the smell of a hot dinner. A d’oy1ey, a finger-glass, two wine-glasses, a China dessert plate, and silver knife and fork, and spoon, to each person. Every variety of fruit, fresh and preserved, is admissible; and biscuits, and pound-cake, with an epergne or stand of jellies in the middle. Varieties of wine are generally placed at each end.
     The modern practice of dining late has added importance to the luncheon, and almost annihilated the supper meal. The following are suitable for either: soups, sandwiches of ham, tongue, dried sausage, or beef ; anchovy, toast or husks; potted beef, lobster, or cheese; dried salmon, lobsters, crayfish, or oysters, poached eggs; patties; pigeon pies; sausages; toast with marrow (served on a water-plate), cheese cakes; puffs, mashed or scolloped potatoes, brocoli; asparagus, sea-kale with toast, creams, jellies, preserved or dried fruits, salad, radishes, &c. If a more substantial supper is required, it may consist of fish, poultry, game; slices of cold meat, pies of chickens, pigeons, or game; lamb or mutton chops, cold poultry, broiled with high seasoning, or fricasseed ; rations or toasted cheese.





A P P E N D I X.




RELATIVE DUTIES OF MISTRESS AND MAID.


     Cooking is neither a mean, or a simple art. To make the best and the most of everything connected with the sustenance of family, requires not only industry and experience, but also considerable mental capacity, or at any rate, an aptness to learn.
     One of the principal, if not the principal, requisite in a cook, is order—that faculty by which a person is enabled to keep all things in their proper places. Without order there can be no cleanliness, another indispensable requisite in a cook : to be always cleaning, is not to be clean. There are some foolish, fussy women, who, with all the disposition on earth to be clean, not having order, dirty one thing as fast as they clean another. Nor is order an essential requisite, as regards the cleanliness of a kitchen, and of kitchen utensils only ; in dressing food, without order there can be no good cooking.
     We have said, that the mistress will take a part in a small family in the business of cooking. We, perhaps, should have rater said, ought to take a part; for we are sorry to say, that there is too much reason to believe, that good housewifery is much neglected in the educating of young ladies now-a-days. If a mistress be really not acquainted with the general principles of cooking, she ought to do one of two things—either to make herself acquainted with them as an humble learner, or to keep out of the kitchen altogether; for her ignorant interference with a good cook-maid will do not good, but may do a great deal of harm. And while on this subject we must give a word of friendly advice to the unfortunate cook, who may happen to fall in with an ignorant, irritable mistress. Let her take care to refrain from going into a passion with her : if the mistress scolds, let the maid be mild; and above all, let her not scold again, or answer in an angry or insulting manner. This is a hard thing to do, we are aware, particularly where a servant feels herself injured; but if she can do it, she will not only gain the victory over her mistress, but she will also feel a consciousness, a happy consciousness, of having left undone those things which she ought not to have done, and of having done those things which she ought to have done. But if the tempers and habits of the mistress and maid are incompatible to that good understanding which ought always to subsist between the employer and the employed, the best course for the servant to do is, to give notice and leave. Let not this, however, be done in anger : before giving warning, let her consult her pillow.
     It has been well observed, that it behoves every person to be extremely careful whom she takes into her service; to be very minute in investigating the character she receives, and equally cautious and scrupulously just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many bad people would be incapacitated for doing mischief, by abusing the trust reposed in them. It may be fairly asserted, that the robbery, or waste, which is but milder epithet for the unfaithfulness of a servant, will be laid to the charge of that master or mistress, who knowing, or having well-founded suspicions, of such faults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or entreaty, to slide him, or her, into another place. There are, however, some who are unfortunately capricious, and often refuse to give a character, because they are displeased that a servant leaves their service ; but this is unpardonable, and an absolute robbery ; servants having no inheritance, and depending on their fair name for employment. To refuse countenance to the evil, and to encourage the good servant, are actions due to society at large; and such as are honest, frugal and attentive to their duties, should be liberally rewarded, which would encourage merit, and inspire servants with zeal to acquit themselves well.
     Servants should always recollect that everything is provided for them, without care and anxiety on their part. They run no risks, are subject to no losses, and under these circumstances, honesty, industry, civility, and perseverance, are in the end sure to meet with their reward. Servants possessing these qualifications, by the blessing of God, must succeed. Servants should be kind and obliging to their fellow-servants; but if they are honest themselves, they will not connive at dishonesty in others. They who see crimes committed and do not discover them, are themselves legally and morally guilty. At the same time, however, well recollect, that tittle-tattling and tale-bearing, for the sake of getting in your mistress's good graces, at the expense of your fellow-servants is, to the largest degree, detestable. A sensible mistress will always discourage such practices.
     We have known servants imagine, that because their employers are kind to them, that because they do not command them to do this or that, but rather solicit them, that, therefore, they cannot do without them, and instead of repaying their good-nature and humanity by gratitude and extra attention, give themselves airs, and become idle and neglectful. Such conduct cannot be too much condemned, an those servants who practice it may depend on it, that, sooner or later, they will have cause to repent. Let it be remembered, that vice as well as virtue has its reward, though of a very different character.
     We shall conclude this with friendly advice to young cooks, by and extract from the "Cook's Best Friend," by the late Dr Kitchener. Nothing can be done in perfection, which must be done in a hurry, (except catching fleas),—"Therefore," says the Doctor, "if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your master and mistress, and do credit to yourself, be punctual; take care, that as soon as the clock strikes, the dinner-bell rings. This shows the establishment is orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master and his guests, and his most praise-worthy in the attendants. But remember you cannot obtain this desirable reputation without good management in every respect; if you wish to ensure ease and independence in the latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only they can be obtained, and earn them by a diligent and faithful performance of the duties of your station in your young days, in which if you steadily persevere, you may depend upon ultimately receiving the reward your services desire."
     All duties are reciprocal; and if you hope to receive favour, endeavour to deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful when obliged. Such behaviour will win regard, and maintain it; enforce what is right, and excuse what is wrong.
     Quiet, steady perseverance, is the only spring which you can safely depend upon infallibly to promote your progress on the road to independence.
     If your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interests, be not easily discouraged ; persevere, and do all in your power to make yourself useful.
     Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family ; let it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is required of you, than less than your duty ; they merit little who perform nothing more than what would be exacted. If you are desired to help in any business that may not strictly belong to your department, undertake it cheerfully, patiently and conscientiously.
     The foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to augment the comfort of those in the kitchen, who will soon find, that the ever-cheering reflection of having done their duty to the utmost of their ability, is in itself, with a Christian spirit, a never-failing source of comfort in all circumstances and situations, and that

"Virtue is its own reward."





WHAT MUST ALWAYS BE DONE AND WHAT MUST NEVER BE DONE.


     1. Keep yourself clean and tidy ; let your hands, in particular, be always clean whenever it is possible. After a dirty job, always wash them A cleanly cook must wash her hands many times in the course of the day, and will require three or four aprons appropriated to the work upon which she is employed. Your hair must never be blowsy, nor your cap dirty.
     2. Keep apart things that would injure each other, or destroy their flavour.
     3. Keep every cloth, saucepan and all other utensils to their proper use, and when done with, put them in their proper places.
     4. Keep every copper stewpan and saucepan bright without, and perfectly clean within, and take care that they are always well tinned. Keep all your dish-covers well dried, and polished ; and to effect this, it will be necessary to wash them in scalding water as soon as removed from the table, and when these things are done let them be hung up in their proper places.
     5. The gridiron, frying-pan, spit, dripping-pan, &c., must be perfectly cleaned of grease and dried before they are put in their proper places.
     6. Attention should be paid to things that do not meet the sight in the way that tins and copper vessels do. Let, for instance, the pudding-cloth, the dish-cloth, and the dish-tub, be always kept perfectly clean. To these may be added, the sieve, the cullender, the jelly-bag, &c., which ought always to be washed as soon after they are used as may be practicable.
     7. Scour your rolling-pin and paste-board as soon after using as possible, but without soap, or any gritty substance, such as sand or brick-dust ; put them away perfectly dry.
     8. Scour your pickle and preserve-jars after they are emptied; dry them and put them away in a dry place.
     9. Wipe your bread and cheese-pan out daily with a dry cloth, and scald them once a week. Scald your salt-pan when out of use, and dry it thoroughly. Scour the lid well by which it is covered when in use.
     10. Mind and put all things in their proper places, and then you will easily find them when they are wanted.
     11. You must not put things out of sight instead of cleaning them, and such things as onions, garlic, &c., must not be cut with the same knife as used in cutting meat, bread, &c. Milk must not be put in a vessel used for greasy purposes, nor must clear liquids, such as water, &c., be put into vessels, which have been used for milk, and not washed; in short, no vessel must be used for any purpose for which it is not appropriated.
     12. You must not suffer any kind of food to become cold in any metal vessel, not even in well-tinned iron saucepans, &c., for they will impart a more or less unpleasant flavour to it. Above all things, you must not let liquid food, or indeed any other, remain in brass or copper vessels after it is cooked. The rust of copper or brass is absolutely poisonous, and this will be always produced by moisture and exposure to the air. The deaths of many persons have been occasioned by the cook not attending to this rule.
     13. You must not throw away the fat which, when cold, accumulates on the top of liquors in which fresh or salt meat has been boiled ; in short, you ought not to waste fat of any description, or any thing else, that may be turned to account; such as marrow-bones, or any other clean bones from which food may be extracted in the way of soup, broth, or stock, or in any other way : for if such food will not suit your table, it will suit the table of the poor. Remember, "Wilful waste makes woful want."
     14. A very essential requisite in a cook, is punctuality : therefore rise early ; and get your orders from your mistress as early as possible, and make your arrangements accordingly. What can be prepared before the business of roasting and boiling commences should always be prepared.
     15. do not do your dirty work at a dresser set apart for cleanly preparations. Take care to have plenty of kitchen cloths, and mark them so as a duster may not be mistaken for pudding-cloth, or a knife-cloth for a towel.
     16. Keep your spit, if you use one, always free from rust and dust, and your vertical jack clean. Never draw up your jack with a weight upon it.
     17. Never employ, even if permitted to do so, any knives, spoons, dishes, cups, or any other articles in the kitchen, which are used in the dining room. Spoons are sure to get scratched, and a knife used for preparing an onion, takes up its flavour, which two or three cleanings will not entirely take away.
     18. Take great care to prevent all preparations which are delicate in their nature, such as custards, blancmange, dressed milks, &c., &c., from burning, to which they are very liable. The surest way to effectually hinder this is to boil them as the carpenter heats his glue, the is, by having an outside vessel filled with water.
     19. You ought not to do any thing by halves. What you do, do well. If you clean, clean thoroughly, having nothing to do with the "slut's wipe," and the "lick and a promise."
     20. And last, though not least, be teachable : be always desirous to learn—never be ashamed to ask for information, lest you should appear to be ignorant; for be assured, the most ignorant are too frequently the most self-opinionated and most conceited; while those who are really well informed, think humbly of themselves, and regret that they know so little.








Notes:
[*] Many persons now make use of yeast powders, and give then a decided preference. They certainly possess the advantage of requiring less time, and thereby enabling you to make muffins, buckwheat cakes, &.c.—which, set with yeast, require some hours in the preparation—at a quarter of an hourʻs notice. The ingredients are the super-carbonate of soda and tartaric acid, to be used in the following manner :— A spoonful of soda, and a spoon two thirds full of tartaric acid, are to be dissolved separately in a little water. The soda is to be put into the batter when it is partly beaten, taking care that it is perfectly dissolved; and the acid is to be added when the cook is ready to begin baking, as they must not be allowed to stand after the effervescence takes place.


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